Category: Istanbul

Bucket List: Ä°stanbul

Posted in Architecture, Art in Europe, Arts in Turkey, Culture, Istanbul, Turkey6 Comments

My time in Ä°stanbul is quickly drawing to a close. By mid-June, I will be stateside. I have been lucky enought to host a bevy visitors this spring, friends and family alike. Checking out cultural sights, cozy cafes, and art stores with loved ones is the best. I’ve been checking off my bucket list as I go.

First up – a night at Georges Hotel. The hotel, located within spitting distance of Galata Tower, has been a favorite of mine due to its rooftop bar (Floor 5) featuring a 180 degree view of the Bosphorus, the Asian side, and the Sultanahmet area.

If you’re lucky enough to catch the call to prayer from that vantage point, you will hear it echo from multiple mosques, reverberating across the BeyoÄŸlu, Cihangir, and Galataport neighborhoods. Emily and I were lucky enough to enjoy this experience, watching a nearly full moon rise over the Bosphorus and the warm glow of night lights appear across the landscape.

At the last minute, I chose to spend a night at the hotel, having been curious about the state of the place during my many visits for dinner with my guests. The room didn’t disappoint. Gorgeous hardwood floors and noise-cancelling windows, a little balcony for two with Galata Tower views was the cherry on top. Incredibly nice staff, including a lobby cat named Lollipop, made up my high praise for the experience.

Of course, no trip to Istanbul is complete without a visit to the Grand Bazaar. Emily and I shopped until we dropped, choosing lamps and carpets for family back home.

Our next stop was Dolmabahçe Palace. Just past the Kabataş ferry port (the end of Tram line 1) and across from Beşiktaş football stadium, this palace boasts a gorgeous waterfront property along the Bosphorus. When Emily and I visited, we found the gardens in full bloom and plenty of people posing for photographs along the waterfront.

The palace itself was wildly ostentatious – featuring a combination of Baroque, Rococo, and Neoclassical architecture. Home to six sultans, the building functioned as the main administrative center for the Ottoman Empire for multiple periods between 1856 and 1922. Building costs nearly exceeded the equivalent of 2 billion USD in today’s figures.

Lacking exhibition text with explanation, the tour through the building was a visual experience only. We chuckled when noting that the portrait artists wished to remain “anonymous” (vs. “unknown”). With newly introduced foreigner admission fees now in the range of $38USD, it is an expensive endeavor, one I feel you could probably experience from the gates and local surrounding area, if you were looking to save a buck or two.

I checked off another bucket list item, a weekend in Moda, just recently. Moda, a neighborhood of the more well-known Kadıköy is located on the Asian side of the Bosphorus. I booked an Airbnb featuring a gorgeous fourth floor deck with 360 degree views of the Princes’ Islands and the wide open sea. Taking the bus downtown after work, I arrived just in time for sunset on my first evening. The wind was stiff but it was glorious to sleep with the windows cracked to enjoy the salt air of the sea.

Brekkie Breakfast Club

During my time on the Asian side, I also enjoyed lunch with friends at Çiya Sofrası in Kadıköy. Featuring Anatolian dishes, served since the Ottoman Empire days, the restaurant serves food that is moderate in spice, plentiful in rice, eggplant, and vegetable stews. My friends Michele and Monique joined me and we struggled to hear ourselves speak among the cheers of the football fans surrounding us. With drums played in the streets and a cheer for every occasion, the fans were certainly raring to go for the evening’s match at the nearby Fenerbahçe football stadium.

On my second night in Moda, I hosted downtown friends for meze (small Turkish dishes) and wine on the roof deck. We could hear the roar from the football stadium as well as the muezzin call at sunset. As day faded to evening, we soaked in the reflection of the moon on the open water, with ferries continuing to scurry locals from port to port well into the night.

As I count down to my final month in Ä°stanbul, my bucket list is growing slim. Still on the list – a visit to Hisari Rumeli Castle Fortress (below left) and a ride on the Bosphorus in a water taxi (below right).

Hisari Rumeli Castle Fortress
A Bosphorus water taxi

Enjoying time with good friends is paramount as I prepare to leave Istanbul. I have a few more visitors to welcome in the meanwhile. As excited as I am about the future, I’m in no rush for this special time to pass by. I will leave this gorgeous city with wonderful memories and no regrets.

The Egyptian consulate on the Bebek waterfront

Travels with My Aunt

Posted in Architecture, Art in Europe, Arts in Turkey, Culture, Exploring Turkey, Istanbul, Turkey6 Comments

New landscapes, new customs. The accumulation of memories. A long life is not a question of years. A man without memories might reach the age of a hundred and feel that his life had been a very brief one. – Graham Greene, Travels with My Aunt

Carpe diem, indeed. My aunt Susan (affectionately known as Suz) has certainly seized the opportunity in her travel existence. Over the past decade, she’s come to visit me in each country in which I’ve lived – South Korea, Russia, and now Türkiye.

Xian, China (March 2015)
St. Petersburg, Russia (May 2019)

Traveling solo from her small town in Maine, I greatly appreciate her effort to visit and always enjoy our time together. Suz is an appreciator of the Arts, often taking me to the Museum of Fine Arts Boston for my birthday when I was young.

Istanbul, Türkiye (April 2024)

We started off the visit on a swanky note with a stay at the Pera Palace Hotel. Though I’ve been for Sunday tea, I had never spent the night.

The Pera Palace Hotel has provided respite for many visitors to Istanbul. Famous guests include Agatha Christie, Ernest Hemingway, and Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis (we stayed next door to her room). It seemed all too fitting to learn that American writer Graham Greene had featured the hotel in his 1969 novel, “Travels with My Aunt”.

The hotel proved a fantastic spot to get our feet wet downtown Рwe drank ̤ay at sidewalk cafes, did some shopping, and visited one of the few Catholic churches in Istanbul (certainly the largest) РSt. Anthony of Padua.

April is simply the perfect time to Istanbul. The warm spring sun was quite a foil for the nor’easter Suz left behind in Maine. Trading snow for tulip season proved the perfect antidote.

Emirgan Park was our first stop, soaking in the gorgeous carpet of tulips blanketing the park. We were happy to trade the hustle of the city for quiet meditation, possible only early in tulip season, before so many visitors decend. We also took in the Sakıp Sabancı Museum, learning of the Modernist path pursued by Turkish painters in the late 1800s. A stunning terrace view of the Bosphorus can be seen from the museum’s front yard.

After our time at Emirgan Park, we shifted to a hotel in Sultanahmet (Hotel Arcadia Blue). Ideal for it’s proximity to the major sights (I’m currently recovering from a bit of knee surgery), we explored the Hagia Sophia, the Blue Mosque, and even took in a whirling dervish show featuring local musicians.

As always, the Grand Bazaar was a highlight (Suz took to Turkish coffee like a pro). We also enjoyed our time at the Spice Bazaar (Mısır Çarşısı). Many fine Turkish treats are currently en route to Hallowell, Maine!

On the recommendation of my friend Monique, we checked out Pandeli Restaurant. Tucked away above the unassuming Eminönü entrance to the spice bazaar, the restaurant has been in business since 1901. While famous guests like Queen Elizabeth II and Audrey Hepburn have enjoyed lunch in these quarters, the menu remains affordable and delicious. The famous blue tiles added to the ambiance.

Our time downtown soon came to a close. With the bayram holiday (Eid) quickly approaching, it was time to clear out of Istanbul and see more of the Turkish countryside. We were off to Bursa and Ä°znik.

Modern Masters

Posted in Architecture, Art in Europe, Arts in Turkey, Culture, Istanbul, Turkey2 Comments

Ara Güler and Devrim Erbil. Two artists as intrinsically linked to Istanbul as çay (tea) and the Hagia Sophia. I’ve come to admire both reverently. Their artworks capture diverse aspects this city, from Istanbul’s mystical link to the sea to the iconic skyline dotted with mosques and minarets. Quite simply, the two artists are modern Turkish masters. Nobody does Istanbul better.

Ara Güler on an Istanbul rooftop

“The Eye of Istanbul”, Ara Güler passed away in 2018. His 90 years on this earth were heavily devoted to capturing the essence of the city. A dedicated photojournalist, Ara strode the cobblestone streets of Pera and walked the docks of Karaköy, capturing gorgeous black and white photographs full of contrast and contrasts.

“We record our period and leave it to the next generation.” – Ara Güler

The faces of his subjects capture the prevalent philosophy of the Turkish people who work this city. From the grungy waterfront culture to the old men playing backgammon on the sidewalk, Ara embraced befriended them all.

Children playing in Tophane, Istanbul, 1986

He captured that ineffable juxtaposition of hope in a better tomorrow and a resigned submission that no matter one’s effort, what will be will be. The self-determined American in me bristles at this take. Somewhere in the back of my mind, however, I do wonder if they know something I do not, given roughly 40,000 years of human inhabitance in the region (since the late Paleolithic period, to be precise).

Last month, I visited the Ara Güler Museum in Istanbul’s Bomonti neighborhood. The exhibition space is small, a few brick walled rooms in a restored beer factory.

On display, photographs from outside of Istanbul, into the villages of Türkiye’s Anatolia region (also known as Asia Minor).

Featuring vibrant colors and careful composition techniques, Ara’s obvious respect and love for his homeland radiates from the glossy prints.

Kadırga, Istanbul, 1989

The photo above, taken outside Istanbul’s Sokollu Mehmet Pasha Mosque, highlights the essence of Istanbul from the perspective of a small child – low to the ground, fighting for balance, and a sky full of Ottoman architecture.

Ara Güler died in 2018. Istanbul native writer, Orhan Pamuk, wrote this tribute called ‘I Like Your Photographs Because They Are Beautiful’ to honor his friend’s life and legacy. The piece features many of Ara’s most powerful images.

Devrim Erbil
The Printmaker of Istanbul
Erbil in his studio

“[Devrim Erbil] is known for his poetic interpretations of Istanbul’s cityscape, which capture the dynamic pulse and historic textures of the city. Erbil’s style brings together traditional motifs and contemporary sensibilities, often featuring a birds-eye view and a vibrant palette that represent the bustling life and scenic vistas of Istanbul.”

Passion for Istanbul (Red), Devrim Erbil

Known for his repetitive mark-making and bright, sometimes metallic pieces, Erbil’s prints are instantly identifiable. Awarded the title of “State Artist” in 2019, Erbil has over six decades of practice under his belt and is also a professor at DoÄŸuÅŸ University on the Asian side of Istanbul.

Galata, Devrim Erbil, Oil Paint
Blue Istanbul, Devrim Erbil, Silk Screen

It has been a goal of mine to locate a Erbil print before departing the city. During February school break, as my uncle and I walked through Kadıköy on Istanbul’s Asian side, we stopped into an art gallery on one of the main streets.

The gallery had a number of Erbil’s most common prints – monochromatic cityscapes featuring murmurations of birds rising in flight above the Bosphorus. I enjoyed them but nothing caught my eye until I spotted this piece below.

Featuring Erbil’s interpretation of the inside of the Hagia Sophia, the print captures the storied building in shimmering glory. Using flaking gold leaf to represent the 1500 year old ceiling as it stands today, Erbil employs a bright blue to represent the sky and green shrubbery on the floor below. The indoor/outdoor juxtaposition reminds me of all the iterations that this place of worship has taken on since Justinian ordered its creation. I also love the circular calligraphic panes written in Arabic which are visible within the print, immediately reminding the view of the famous building represented within.

Interior of the Hagia Sophia
My purchased Erbil Devrim print

Needless to say, I caught the ferry from KabataÅŸ later that week and purchased my Erbil print. It’s now carefully rolled, awaiting transport to my future home on Montagnola, where it will become another wonderful reminder of my two years in Türkiye.

The Galata Bridge at Midday, Ara Güler, 1954

During my time in Istanbul, I’ve been lucky to be introduced to many artists, both historic and contemporary. Devrim and Güler stand out not only for their notoriety but also for their dedication to the city. Both artists will be featured in art history books for having sought to capture and make some sense of the frenetic energy of this city of seven hills.

24 Hours in Istanbul

Posted in Architecture, Arts in Turkey, Culture, Exploring Turkey, Istanbul, Turkey2 Comments
The Fatih Mosque

I’ve been lucky enough to be visited by three visitors in recent weeks. My uncle Doug joined me for the start of my February break. My former student (now an employed college graduate!) stopped by on his way to Seoul. And most recently, I met up with my college roommate’s sister-in-law from Maine. Exploring Istanbul is always fun but it’s even better to see it through fresh eyes.

Galata Airbnb

My Top Ten Istanbul (in no particular order):

  1. Cafe Privato
  2. Galata Tower
  3. Arada Cafe (Turkish-Lebanese breakfast)
  4. Balat
  5. The Grand Bazaar
  6. Roundtrip ferry ride to Kadıköy (Güven Sanat, Coffee Pots, Seven Sanat Galerisi) and a return to Karakoy
  7. Basilica Cistern (Yerebatan Sarnıcı in Turkish)
  8. Hagia Sophia (now costs 25 euro/ticket), guided tour then lunch at Dubb
  9. Minoa Akaretler (bookstore and cafe in BeÅŸiktaÅŸ and Pera)
  10. The Fatih Mosque (dinner at Buuzecedi Restaurant)

Sea bass at Cafe Privato

Doug and I saw the sights, from the Basilica Cisterns to Balat. He tried salep (a resounding yes), enjoyed Syrian food, and quizzed our tour guide at the Hagia Sophia. We explored a lot in just a few days and, all too soon, he was off to Bangkok.

All this touring has me thinking about what I would still like to see in this city of seven hills. A meal at Çiya Sofrası tops the list (traditional Turkish cuisine on the Asian side). A visit to the Sabatchi Museum during tulip season is a definite must. I did check one thing off the list that week – after Doug departed, I visited the Bomonti neighborhood and finally made it to the Ara Güler Müzesi.

Ara Güler, People sitting talking beside a coffee bar in Beyoglu, 1958

Just a few days later, another visitor arrived in town. David, my former student from APIS, came through for a long layover. Like something out of Anthony Bourdain, we made the most of the 24 hours David was on the ground. Dinner on the George’s Hotel Terrace (elevator to Floor 5) with dessert at Mahizer’s sidewalk cafe off Taksim. A trip to Sultanahmet and the Arasta Bazaar. Even a stop through the Pera Museum to see the contemporary and historic mix of arts and culture of the region.

After meeting up with Rachel, we headed to the Istanbul Modern and took in the new exhibitions. As Rachel is a boatbuilder from Rockland, Maine, it seemed only natural to get out on the water. We took the Karakoy/Eminonu/Kadikoy ferry loop, enjoying the views from the top deck. Dinner at Karaköy Gümrük capped off the evening and soon Rachel was on her way.

Ferry ride on the Bosphorus

More visitors are on their way this spring, with more sights to be seen. This city certainly has a special hold over all who are lucky enough to visit – the essence of which was beautifully captured by the poet Orhan Veli (translated by Talat Sait Halman). I leave you with his poem, I Am Listening to Istanbul, a recent recommendation from a friend.

Ara Güler, The Golden Horn, Istanbul

I am listening to Istanbul, intent, my eyes closed:

At first there is a gentle breeze

And the leaves on the trees

Softly sway;

Out there, far away,

The bells of water-carriers unceasingly ring;

I am listening to Istanbul, intent, my eyes closed.

I am listening to Istanbul, intent, my eyes closed;

Then suddenly birds fly by,

Flocks of birds, high up, with a hue and cry,

While the nets are drawn in the fishing grounds

And a woman’s feet begin to dabble in the water.

I am listening to Istanbul, intent, my eyes closed.

I am listening to Istanbul, intent, my eyes closed.

The Grand Bazaar’s serene and cool,

An uproar at the hub of the Market,

Mosque yards are full of pigeons.

While hammers bang and clang at the docks

Spring winds bear the smell of sweat;

I am listening to Istanbul, intent, my eyes closed.

I am listening to Istanbul, intent, my eyes closed;

Still giddy from the revelries of the past,

A seaside mansion with dingy boathouses is fast asleep.

Amid the din and drone of southern winds, reposed,

I am listening to Istanbul, intent, my eyes closed.

Lodos

Posted in Architecture, Arts in Turkey, Culture, Exploring Turkey, Istanbul, School Days, Turkey6 Comments

Happy New Year, everyone. Winter has arrived, with January bringing us rain and much cooler temperatures here in Turkey. We’ve had snow flurries here and there but nothing has stuck quite yet. Winter in Turkey really runs from January through March and the lead up can bring some pretty intense winds. These winds are known as lodos.

View of the Bosphorus from the terrace of the Istanbul Modern Museum of Art

The lodos are strong winds originating in the Aegean Sea to the south of Istanbul. These winds are strong enough to redirect currents and can wreck havoc on shipping in the Bosphorus, with winds at the level of a strong gale or 50 knots (a 9-10 on the Beaufort scale, so I read).

A field trip to the Istanbul Modern with my IB Visual Art students

Lodos winds step beyond the realm of a natural phenomenon, arriving replete with their own folklore in Turkish culture. When the lodos blow, headaches, sleeplessness, and overly emotional thinking may all occur.

In the spirit of the new year, I’m choosing to view lodos as winds of change. As the Scorpians sang (or the CIA wrote?), “The future is in the air, I can feel it everywhere”. They may have been referring to the approaching end to the Cold War, but, for me, these lines refer to potential changes in latitude in 2024.

Portrait from Tbilisi, Georgia

Back in late October I had to grapple with the choice of continuing my time here in Turkey or setting my sights elsewhere, to another international post. As those of you who have been reading this blog are likely aware, my time in Turkey brought incredible opportunities my way – from fantastic new friends to unique travel destinations such as Georgia and Romania. The international school timeline means a teacher could go months between deciding to turn down a contract to securing a new position, and that’s if you’re lucky enough to receive an offer. It’s quite a cliff to dive off – not one I take lightly.

Selections from talented contemporary Turkish artists

In the end, I have decided to bring my time in Turkey to a close. Moloko and I will depart Istanbul in June 2024, having enjoyed a dynamic two years in this exciting ancient city.

I’m excited to share that I have taken a position at the American School in Switzerland (TASIS), my alma mater of sorts from my camp counselor days. The school is nestled in the foothills of the Swiss Alps, on a small mountain called Montagnola. As a twenty-something, I spent four summers at TASIS, becoming acquainted with international life. I met friends and campers from all over the world, soaked in the gorgeous views of Lake Lugano, and took trains into the mountains on my days off.

My parents’ visit to Lugano, Summer 2007

I am very excited to return to TASIS, this time as a faculty member of the Visual Arts Department. I will continue teaching IB Visual Arts, and also have the chance to teach drawing, painting, and the like. This new chapter in Lugano will begin in August 2024. Visitors are most definitely welcome!

Mom and I on Montagnola, overlooking Lake Lugano

A new year brings the promise of change. It is never easy to depart from a place where meaningful relationships run deep. However, I do believe that there is a beauty in the time and place where our lives cross with others. I will take the next few months to relish these relationships amidst the backdrop of Istanbul. I have a few visitors from home headed my way and I remain a devoted tourist in this land of surprises. The next stop on my tour of Turkey… Cappadocia!

Balat

Posted in Culture, Exploring Turkey, Istanbul, Turkey2 Comments

One of Istanbul’s oldest and most charming districts, Balat has a long history as the center of the city’s Jewish, Armenian, and Greek Orthodox communities. Balat today is overwhelmingly Muslim, with most minority populations having left the district or been forced to leave. Colorful two- and three-storey houses line the streets, making the neighborhood a hotspot for those drawn to the charm of “Insta-nbul” 😉

We started the day in central Fatih, retracing the path of my Syrian food last winter. Fortified by a brunch of hummus, falafel, and pickled vegetables, we walked past the Fatih Camii (mosque) and through the hilly backstreets to Balat. Ornate architectural touches dotted our path.

Pops of color beckoned around each corner alongside crumbling sidewalks and structures. This dichotomy of beauty and detritus is woven into the fabric of Istanbul, and it certainly something I’ve come to appreciate. You can’t have one without the other – they enhance each other.

We knew we’d reached Balat when the cafes spilled out into the street and cute boutiques appeared at every turn. After an iced coffee at Artlocalist, we went on a little hunt for treasures to bring back to friends and family in the States.

Balat proved just as charming as promised. As autumn makes its way towards Istanbul, I look forward to the chance to walk the streets far from the madding crowd that is tourist season here. I will return to see the beautiful painted ceiling of the Yanbol Synagogue and take in a new cafe someday soon.

I would be remiss to not mention that this post was delayed due to the passing of my Uncle Dick. It’s hard to believe that he has left us but I’m also thankful that dementia no longer holds a grip on his keen intellect.

I love this picture of all of us down the Cape years ago. We spent many a summer in East Dennis, famously tagging downed trees together after Hurricane Bob in 1991. He taught me how to play chess and never let me win at Scrabble – not even once 😉 He was always a supporter of my life abroad, eager to discuss foreign affairs and current events when I returned to the States for a visit.

I’m very thankful for the opportunity to be with my family and honor his memory. My time in Maine was peaceful, spent along the Kennebec River where he and my aunt made their home. His legacy of service to the state of Maine lives on in the stories told by those who knew him best. He will be missed.

The Grand Bazaar

Posted in Arts in Turkey, Culture, Exploring Turkey, Istanbul, Turkey2 Comments

Today’s tale begins with a quest – my friend Karen wished to purchase a few lamps. My friend Michele knew someone (Mandy) who knew a lamp guy. Enter: a trip to Istanbul’s Grand Bazaar. We decided to make an afternoon of it and it turned into quite an adventure. Hard to put into words but I’ll try…

The Grand Bazaar (Turkish: Kapalıçarşı, meaning ‘Covered Market’; also Büyük Çarşı, meaning ‘Grand Market’) in Istanbul is one of the largest and oldest covered markets in the world, with 61 covered streets and over 4,000 shops on a total area of 30,700 m2, attracting between 250,000 and 400,000 visitors daily. In 2014, it was listed No.1 among the world’s most-visited tourist attractions with 91,250,000 annual visitors. (Wikipedia) The Bazaar opened during the winter of 1455/56, shortly after the Ottoman conquest of Constantinople.

Quite simply, this maze of alleyways and covered corridors is intimidating. Thankfully, we had Mandy, who knows everyone. A septuagenarian who has entertained a multitude of entrepreneurial endeavors over her decade in Istanbul, Mandy knows everyone. Vendors shouted out her name in greeting as we passed. They ushered us into their stores, plying us with leather jackets and hilarious complements. She asked about their mothers, their nephews, and their personal health. It was quite an sight to behold.

Mandy and Michele deftly led us through the Bazaar, eventually through an alleyway which opened into a courtyard where men sat on stools sipping chai below a leafy green arbor. A cat slept under the shade of a grape leaf while a textile artist shaved a rug up on the roof, seemingly light years above from the hustle and bustle of the Bazaar.

We were ushered into a shop filled floor-to-ceiling with Uzbek fabrics of every pattern and color imaginable. The shopkeepers immediately offered us tea (“chai”), coffee, or water (“su”), as is customary. It was so bloody hot that we gladly accepted a cool drink. Owing to their faith in Mandy’s choice of company (as well as, no doubt, our foreign change purses), we were left alone to make the store our personal closet.

We tried on coats of technocolors rivaling Joseph’s own. Mandy and Michele searched for pillow fabric (front, back, and piping). I helped Karen choose three suitable lampshade fabrics to suit her new apartment with great views on the Bosphorus.

Near the door, I spotted a unique tapestry featuring squares of fabric sewn in diamond formation (above right). It reminded me of something that might hang over a doorframe and, in fact, it was. Over 80 years old, an antique from Uzbekistan. Frayed at the edges and in need of a little TLC, the colors were beautiful and I knew they would do perfectly over my headboard. You see, in the land of the moving fault lines, you don’t hang framed artwork above your bed. The tapestry was too good to pass up.

Everyone made their purchases, with a bit of a comedy ensuing. Each of us checking our Turkish bank accounts to sell dollars for lira, using credit cards from New Zealand and Australia, or a fresh $100USD from the States. Quality goods do not come cheap! Even in Istanbul. We walked out a couple hours later, our pockets a little lighter, but each with treasures to cherish.

In the steamy August heat, we were in need of another cool drink. Strolling the Bazaar, Michele spotted a favorite cafe (Çinili Cafe) and we scored a corner table. Over an iced chocolate and sweet pastries, we relished our purchases and the kindness of the shopkeepers who had taken good care.

We got to talking with our waiter, who turned out to be the cafe owner’s son. Mandy asked a question about a Muslim sect and the young man replied that he didn’t know, his family was Christian. So unusual! In this land of Islamic faith, only 0.2% of the population is Christian. I taught a few cousins last year from Mardin, an ancient town in eastern Turkey which was founded in the 11th century BC. They were passionately proud of their Assyrian Christian heritage.

Turns out Mandy, too, knows a family of Christians from this area, who turned out to be good family friends of the cafe owner. The world really seemed a little smaller in that moment. Catching up on their mutual friends (someone got married last year), the cafe owner also shared that he has worked in the Grand Bazaar for 54 years.

A fascinating and intimate subculture lives within the passageways and alleyways of the Bazaar, one I only caught a brief glimpse of that day. I look forward to going back in the future and bringing guests to Mandy and Michele’s favorite haunts. It does not seem quite so intimidating anymore, instead more of a new city to explore. With a quarter to half a million visitors per day, this concept tracks.

Back at home, I made quick work of hanging the tapestry. I was quite pleased that it looked exactly as I had hoped, pulling all the colors in the room together. A memory of our day at the Grand Bazaar, a seminal experience I will surely never forget.

Grand Bazaar vendors:

Nurem (Uzbek textiles, lampshades, clothing, and pillows)

Sermon Almaz (wooden handicraft, board games)

Adnan & Hasan (carpets, kilims)

Gian Mori (leather goods)

Çinili Cafe (cold chocolate, apple pie, treats)

That’s a wrap

Posted in Exploring Turkey, Istanbul, Turkey1 Comment

Hard to believe but my first school year in Turkey is coming to a close. It’s been quite a ride and I’m thankful to be on the other side. Thank you all for following along! It’s so great to hear from you and share these adventures, too. Here’s a couple from the last few weeks, wrapping up the year out on the water.

First up is Bodrum. An hour south of Istanbul by plane, it’s a waterfront town with lots of fun for tourists to enjoy.

On Saturday, we rented a boat for the day to do some cove hopping. The water is just stunning here – so clear you can see all the way to the bottom. Quite chilly in June but the salt of the Mediterranean lets you float for hours.

Here’s Dina and I repping the Sox. Her husband is from Salem, Mass.

On Sunday, my wonderful friend Michele took a few us to a little village called Gümüşlük on the other side of the Bodrum peninsula.

We took a dolmuÅŸ to get there. A dolmuÅŸ is a mini bus and the word translates to “it’s full” in Turkish. The van only departs when it has enough passengers and takes you to destinations at a fraction of the cost of a private taxi.

We wandered around the shops and checked out the a waterfront cafes. Evil eyes are a staple of Turkey and this village also featured gourds decorated by hand.

We met a sweet pup taking a dip and joined him, putting our feet in to cool off during the heat of the day.

All too soon it was time to return to Istanbul for another week of exams and end-of-the-year activities. Thankful for such a wonderful group!

Back in Istanbul, my friend Kelly arranged a boat trip to celebrate our colleagues and friends who are leaving this year. Goodbyes are a given in ex-pat life but it’s great to go out on a high note.

We headed north on the Bosphorus Strait, skirting the banks and taking in the stone palaces dotting the shoreline. These stone giants are memorials from the Ottoman age and many are decorated in the Baroque style of their original age.

The day was such a lovely break from exam marking and the craziness that marks the end of the school year. The Bosphorus is really something special.

I fly back to Boston in a week. Fun plans in store for the summer. Give a shout if you’re in New England – would love to see you 🙂

Staycation

Posted in Culture, Exploring Turkey, Istanbul, Turkey10 Comments

As April turned to May, I was lucky enough to have my friend Tori come to visit from Vermont. I had a long weekend which turned out to be the first of many thanks to the election situation. More on that another time. I was thrilled when Tori could find the time for a week’s trip to Turkey and the direct flight from Boston made the trip fairly simple (Anne’s diner and Don’s airport shuttle included).

Leaving Moloko with yet another set of wonderful cat sitters, Tori and I headed downtown to dinner at Ayaspaşa Rus Lokantası. The most authentic Russian fare in Istanbul, we did our best to sample the trip Tori did not get to take due to COVID in May of 2020. The plate in front of me contains salmon blini with sour cream (yum). We were even treated to singing and dancing in the restaurant.

My friend Michele graciously welcomed us to stay at her downtown apartment just behind Taksim Square. Thanks to her gorgeous art collection from all over the world, it reads as a boutique hotel, replete with a view of the Bosphorus off her balcony. As walked down the steps to catch the tram, we passed the beautiful wisteria in full bloom.

Fresh off my first set of visitors, I had a lot of fun to playing tourist in Istanbul. Thanks to the first go round, I learned you must get to the Hagia Sophia as the line forms at 9am. See us here in line, my second weekend in a row! Managed to grab a simit and coffee on the way. The Hagia Sophia really is as beautifully stunning and peaceful as it seems in pictures.

After our time inside, we took pictures out front and walked across Sultanahmet to the Blue Mosque in which 20,000 blue Iznik ceiling tiles truly baffle the mind.

Rooftops are surely the best way to experience the stunning landscape of Istanbul. We opted for good views and good taste – drinks at Corinne Hotel‘s rooftop bar and dinner at Hodan‘s beautiful garden restaurant. Love the origami installation in the entryway.

Checking off a number of Istanbul bucket list items, I had pre-ordered tickets to Galata Tower. Newly reopened after renovations, the tower was built in the 1300s by the Genoese colony. The Pera neighborhood was once divided into quadrants, respectively housing merchants from Genoa, Venice, Tuscany, and Ragusa (today the Croatian coastline).

The view from Galata Tower did not disappoint on such a bluebird day. And, in fact, we were joined by a cheeky gull on the observation deck.

After, we enjoyed a decadent breakfast at Arada Cafe (a cross between Lebanese and Turkish breakfast). We were quickly very full and enjoyed visits from a number of my coworkers who live in the neighborhood.

I wanted Tori to experience a different side of Turkey but we didn’t want to board another plane. We opted for a night on Büyükada, one of the Prince’s Islands in the Sea of Marmara. An easy ferry ride away, Büyükada proved the perfect little island getaway. Since the ferries are run by the municipality, you can tap your Istanbulkart at the ferry terminal. It cost us a mere $2 each to reach the island.

Büyükada could not have been more different from downtown Istanbul. Bicycles and electric golf carts are the main mode of transportation. We walked around, taking in the old Victorian homes once occupied by wealthy Jewish vacationers. We caught a pop up of Emma’s Baked Goods recommended by a friend. After the tourists left for the night, it was fun to have the place to ourselves.

The next morning, we rented bikes and spent a lot of walking those bikes up and down the steep hills of the island. It was nice to get outside the downtown and escape the packed crowds disembarking from the ferries. As it was a public holiday in Turkey and the economy is not great, many people have chosen to stay local for holidays this year, bringing intense crowds to the city and the islands.

All too soon it was time to leave island life behind and return to normal life. Tori headed back to Boston and home to her own furry companions. Moloko and I were sad to see her go but really enjoyed her visit. I will be taking that same flight back to Boston in just about a month. Summer is coming fast! Hope you’re all doing well and taking care. More adventures to come…

Greece

Posted in Greece, Istanbul7 Comments

Spring has arrived and so have my first visitors. My parents and our great friends, Charlie and Deb, arrived in April to stay for a little over a week. We saw the sights of Istanbul – the Hagia Sophia and shopping for spices in Eminönü were highlights. We were even able to enter the Blue Mosque after months of renovations and the completion of Ramadan. Jet lag did not slow this crew down one bit.

Our brunch cruise on the Bosphorus Strait

We spent the weekend in Istanbul and flew to Greece on the Monday following Orthodox Easter. April is still shoulder season so we didn’t have to contend with heavy crowds yet. The weather was perfect for exploring the city.

There was a trifecta which really made our trip particularly great. The first piece of the puzzle was our hotel (Central Hotel) which had been recommended by my brother, Brett, and his girlfriend, Katie. Located right on the edge of the Plaka neighborhood, everything was easily within reach. We were mere minutes from cathedrals, cafes, and even the Acropolis.

The religious history in Athens is second maybe only to Rome. It blew my mind how you could rock up to a tiny Byzantine church and find the capital of a Corinthian column just sitting outside. Created millennia apart but today sitting side-by-side.

The second key to our great trip was the itinerary my dad prepared for our time in Greece. Highlights include a bus ride down the coast to see sunset at the Temple of Poseidon as well as a day trip to the island of Aegina by high speed ferry.

Just off the coast of Athens, the island of Aegina once featured 365 mountain churches, one for each day of the year. We visited just a few of the 180 which remain and toured the island under the guidance of our spirited tour leader, Sandy.

After lunch, we explored the Temple of Aphaea and spent time down at the harbor enjoying the sunlight dancing on the turquoise water of the Aegean.

The last special piece was, of course, the people. By coincidence, Charlie had a childhood friend in Athens at the time of our visit. Steve was visiting his girlfriend, Georgia, who is from Greece and graciously toured us all around her city. It was pretty awesome hearing Steve’s strong Maine accent on the streets of Athens. We had a great time hanging out with those guys and learned a lot about Georgia’s culture.

Hotel rooftop on Mom’s birthday – there are four Searsport District High School grads in this pic 🙂

Before we knew it, it was time to head back to Istanbul. Athens could not have been a better host. The welcoming people of Greece, the amazing food, and the company really made it a phenomenal trip. Lots of wonderful memories!