Tag: Cats of Istanbul

Ne var, ne yok?

Posted in Arts in Turkey, Exploring Turkey, Saying Goodbye, Turkey7 Comments

“Ne var, ne yok?” Turks use this phrase casually to ask “how’s it going?” or “what’s happening?”. In actuality, the phrase translates to “what exists, what does not exist?”. Just as very little in Turkey was what it seemed, this question has proved telling as I reflect upon my time spent there.

What does exist? Turkey is a diverse country full of welcoming people who are happy and proud to share their rich cultural traditions. At nearly every turn, a stunning vista – from fields of sunflowers to the turquoise Marmara Sea to ancient ruins alongside the highway – Turkey is gorgeous. Ancient history from so long ago it will stop you in your tracks. Stunning mosaics. Vaulted mosque ceilings which shimmer like the night sky. Outrageously delicious food – kaymak, kofte, and pide. And the Grand Bazaar – oh my word – the textiles.

Turkey is a fish-out-of-water experience. From the call to prayer to tractors on the roadways to midnight rumblings of earthquakes (was the ground shaking or is it just me?), Turkey will jostle you. “I had come to Istanbul, a city with which I had many romantic associations but little practical experience” (Elif Batuman, New Yorker).

What does not exist? A system of rule, a sense of collective imperative for the greater good, common sense which aligns with Western philosophy, rational thought surrounding animal welfare. Currently, economic stability is lacking, too. In my two years in country, I dealt with enough circular bureaucratic madness to drive a person to drink. I won’t go into many details but my experience in Turkey was made stressful right up until the bitter end due to a lack communication between the ever-changing bureaucratic “laws” and the actual reality of everyday life. I walk away feeling that I have some understandings of the “system” but I sure don’t respect it. Mark my words, there are many reasons that Turkey will never be invited to join the EU.

What will I remember? Delicious Turkish breakfasts, the trip to Edirne with Kasia, Indian food nights with Tracey and Zach, exploring Cappadocia with Michele. My beautiful friends who opened their lives and their homes to me in this country that they love so dear. I will miss them terribly.

Zach and Mol, best buds
Cappadocia with Michele – January 2024

Boat trips on the Bosphorus, First Fridays at Bira with the B-town crew, and visits to so many gorgeous mosques.

My beautiful students, especially my dedicated little Art Club. We had a wonderful time.

The trip to Dalyan with my students, visits from loved ones, and adventures to places like Georgia and Florence.

Isabel Allende writes, “there is no definitive separation as long as there is memory.” I am thankful to be leaving with wonderful memories, many of them shared with beautiful friends and some of them held close just for me.

Kasia and I on our camii tour of Edirne

As for now, my sojourn in the US this summer has begun in earnest. Moloko made it out of Turkey thanks to my amazing friends Deniz and Nilufer. In reflecting, her safety and mine are the only thing that really matters. Everything else is just material items, drama, and details.

Evans, Nilufer, Deniz, and I at the Staff Farewell Party

I’ve come to learn that I need to live in society which outlines its expectations more clearly. My time in Switzerland will bring many rules, some wacky (no toilet flushing after 9pm) and some useful (clear steps for visa applications). I look forward to sharing my journey in Lugano with you, starting in August.

Left: Our front yard in Bahçeşehir Right: Moloko safely home in Massachusetts

I’m off to France to teach painting for most of July. I’ll return for family time down the Cape in August. I feel so blessed to lead this existence and I hope many us cross paths over the next few months. The time has come to put my adventure in Turkey to rest. İyi akşamlar hocam. Goodbye, teacher.

Bucket List: İstanbul

Posted in Architecture, Art in Europe, Arts in Turkey, Culture, Istanbul, Turkey6 Comments

My time in İstanbul is quickly drawing to a close. By mid-June, I will be stateside. I have been lucky enought to host a bevy visitors this spring, friends and family alike. Checking out cultural sights, cozy cafes, and art stores with loved ones is the best. I’ve been checking off my bucket list as I go.

First up – a night at Georges Hotel. The hotel, located within spitting distance of Galata Tower, has been a favorite of mine due to its rooftop bar (Floor 5) featuring a 180 degree view of the Bosphorus, the Asian side, and the Sultanahmet area.

If you’re lucky enough to catch the call to prayer from that vantage point, you will hear it echo from multiple mosques, reverberating across the Beyoğlu, Cihangir, and Galataport neighborhoods. Emily and I were lucky enough to enjoy this experience, watching a nearly full moon rise over the Bosphorus and the warm glow of night lights appear across the landscape.

At the last minute, I chose to spend a night at the hotel, having been curious about the state of the place during my many visits for dinner with my guests. The room didn’t disappoint. Gorgeous hardwood floors and noise-cancelling windows, a little balcony for two with Galata Tower views was the cherry on top. Incredibly nice staff, including a lobby cat named Lollipop, made up my high praise for the experience.

Of course, no trip to Istanbul is complete without a visit to the Grand Bazaar. Emily and I shopped until we dropped, choosing lamps and carpets for family back home.

Our next stop was Dolmabahçe Palace. Just past the Kabataş ferry port (the end of Tram line 1) and across from Beşiktaş football stadium, this palace boasts a gorgeous waterfront property along the Bosphorus. When Emily and I visited, we found the gardens in full bloom and plenty of people posing for photographs along the waterfront.

The palace itself was wildly ostentatious – featuring a combination of Baroque, Rococo, and Neoclassical architecture. Home to six sultans, the building functioned as the main administrative center for the Ottoman Empire for multiple periods between 1856 and 1922. Building costs nearly exceeded the equivalent of 2 billion USD in today’s figures.

Lacking exhibition text with explanation, the tour through the building was a visual experience only. We chuckled when noting that the portrait artists wished to remain “anonymous” (vs. “unknown”). With newly introduced foreigner admission fees now in the range of $38USD, it is an expensive endeavor, one I feel you could probably experience from the gates and local surrounding area, if you were looking to save a buck or two.

I checked off another bucket list item, a weekend in Moda, just recently. Moda, a neighborhood of the more well-known Kadıköy is located on the Asian side of the Bosphorus. I booked an Airbnb featuring a gorgeous fourth floor deck with 360 degree views of the Princes’ Islands and the wide open sea. Taking the bus downtown after work, I arrived just in time for sunset on my first evening. The wind was stiff but it was glorious to sleep with the windows cracked to enjoy the salt air of the sea.

Brekkie Breakfast Club

During my time on the Asian side, I also enjoyed lunch with friends at Çiya Sofrası in Kadıköy. Featuring Anatolian dishes, served since the Ottoman Empire days, the restaurant serves food that is moderate in spice, plentiful in rice, eggplant, and vegetable stews. My friends Michele and Monique joined me and we struggled to hear ourselves speak among the cheers of the football fans surrounding us. With drums played in the streets and a cheer for every occasion, the fans were certainly raring to go for the evening’s match at the nearby Fenerbahçe football stadium.

On my second night in Moda, I hosted downtown friends for meze (small Turkish dishes) and wine on the roof deck. We could hear the roar from the football stadium as well as the muezzin call at sunset. As day faded to evening, we soaked in the reflection of the moon on the open water, with ferries continuing to scurry locals from port to port well into the night.

As I count down to my final month in İstanbul, my bucket list is growing slim. Still on the list – a visit to Hisari Rumeli Castle Fortress (below left) and a ride on the Bosphorus in a water taxi (below right).

Hisari Rumeli Castle Fortress
A Bosphorus water taxi

Enjoying time with good friends is paramount as I prepare to leave Istanbul. I have a few more visitors to welcome in the meanwhile. As excited as I am about the future, I’m in no rush for this special time to pass by. I will leave this gorgeous city with wonderful memories and no regrets.

The Egyptian consulate on the Bebek waterfront

Snow

Posted in Istanbul, Turkey11 Comments

Hello, everyone.

Let me start by saying that I am, once again, thankful to be safe and sound in my Istanbul apartment. We are in the middle of a storm which started on Saturday, bringing winds of over 80 miles per hour, along with rain, sleet, and snow. When extreme weather hits, the government sends out text message dispatches like the one below and I run them through Google Translate to understand (a very necessary app). Many flights and ferries have been cancelled but thankfully power lines in my suburb of Bahçeşehir are underground, ensuring that I am safe and warm.

If these past few months have been indicative of anything, however, it is the fragile state of affairs in this region of the world. Both natural and manmade disasters have plagued Türkiye, most recently in the form of powerful earthquakes in the southeastern portion of the country, in an area along the Syrian border. Syria and Lebanon have experienced great damage as well. This dispatch from the US Mission in Türkiye provides a brief overview.

If anyone wishes to contribute to relief funds, AKUT Search & Rescue Association is on the frontlines. They are a quality organization and accept donations in the form of USD, Euros, and Turkish lira.

As a result of these terrible events, Türkiye has entered a week-long period of mourning. My school is operating online and we will not return to the classroom until Monday. Various stores are closed and few cars are on the road. Considering that victims of the quakes are being brought to Istanbul hospitals, it is for the best that everyone stay home and let medical professionals do their important work.

Thankfully, I have friends and neighbors around me and we check in regularly. My furry companion is quite pleased to have daytime company, having created a little nest at the foot of my bed.

This morning has brought some glorious sunshine peaking through the clouds. It’s a bit startling, the beauty of the sun, knowing there is so much loss and pain a mere 500 miles to the southeast. It’s a grave reminder to be thankful for health and safety, and appreciate the little things. I certainly appreciate you for taking the time to check in and wish you a safe and peaceful week ahead.

How Bazaar

Posted in Culture, Exploring Turkey, Istanbul, Turkey10 Comments

Forgive the pun – as a teacher with two weeks left of school, my sanity is hanging by a thread! It’s hard to believe but 2022 is rapidly drawing to a close. Holiday parties abound and the weather here has shifted to grey skies with a near constant mist of rain. Reminds me of the fall I spent in Oregon. I’m excited to be headed back to Massachusetts very soon to see family and friends. My first fall in Turkey is nearly in the books.

Heading back to the States is always exciting. Spending time with loved ones, hiking familiar trails, and cozying up to watch the Pats all sound pretty great right about now. It’s also a great excuse to share treasures from my travels with the folks back home. And when you live in Turkey, there’s only one place to shop for literally anything you could ever dream of – Istanbul’s Grand Bazaar.

My friend Michele offered to show me around the marketplace this past Saturday morning. She’s lived here for ten years and knows the Bazaar like the back of her hand. I could not recreate our route if I tried! That’s Michele leading the way into the Eminönü marketplace in her yellow jacket. I’m sure you’d never guess that she, too, is an art teacher 😉 Birds of a feather.

The skies threatened as made our way through the continually narrowing streets. Turkish delights beckoned at every stall with each vendor selling their special mix of options. Piles of spices lined the aisles as well. Keep in mind, we’re not in the actual Grand Bazaar nor the Spice Bazaar – this is the stuff on the outside, ripe for the picking.

Small shops hawked everything you could possibly think of. There was the guy sharpening knives behind his little pushcart and a man attempting to carry bags and bags of rice on his shoulders down the cobblestone alleyways. Vendors called out cheerfully in English, easily identifying me as an American (I was with an Aussie and a Kiwi, odd man out). Must have been my Eddie Bauer raincoat (lol).

Multiple shops were overflowing with Christmas gear. Considering that 99% of Turkish people consider themselves to be Muslim, this was a bit unexpected. But we happily snapped up some glasses for the photo booth at the holiday party next weekend.

Possibly my favorite corner in the market contained all the paper goods and handmade paper stores one could ever need. I had a lot of fun picking out souvenirs for folks back home and it brought back good memories of shopping hanji in Namdaemun.

There were entire stores filled with only boxes, twine, and wrapping materials. Michele really took our tour to the next level when she brought us to the jewelry market. 6+ floors of shops dedicated to glass pieces, silver pendents, and strings-on-strings of beads.

This was peak sensory overload, as you might imagine. Michele adopted mosaics as her COVID handicraft and, with options like these, I can certainly see why.

There is an entire floor dedicated to yarn, probably a dozen shops in total. Macrame materials, cotton yarn, wool, organic yarn. If you name it, it exists on the upper level of the marketplace.

As Jenn knows, I’m not a huge fan of shopping as a past time so I tried to take this all in as sightseeing. It became harder to do as the morning wore on and the streets began to fill with people. Below is a moment of respite I found above the crowds, the landscape echoing the dusty rose palette of nearly everything here in Istanbul. There is beauty in the breakdown.

Please keep in mind that at no time did we actually enter the Grand Bazaar itself. That adventure will have to wait for another day. But this overload of color, texture, and noise was enough to brighten up this grey December morning which began with this view of the Bosphorus.

Some of you have asked, is life in Istanbul really as wonderful as it seems? The answer is not so black and white. Excursions like this one to the bazaar are not my everyday life, but they are within reach with the help of others. It would be possible to filter this blog like any other type of social media – often with rose-colored glasses. Be assured – I do see red when frustrations appear and they certainly do appear, just as they would in daily life anywhere. It’s an experiment in extremes at times. Expat life isn’t always easy and seemingly simple tasks can prove wildly challenging in a foreign language. But there’s a lot of beauty in this life, too. As someone recently reflected, you can let these things get to you or let them pass. Truly depends on the day but that’s my task as I begin to settle in to my home-for-now.

Thank you for following along with my journey! I hope to welcome many of you in person to this wild and wacky place in the coming years. As you can see, Moloko has launched a visitor campaign of her own, modeling the comfort and snuggle opportunities afforded by the guest room, now open for business.

As 2023 approaches, I want to wish you the best, wherever this holiday season may find you. Whether with relatives or chosen family or both, I hope this December brings you all the blessings of the season and, perhaps, renewed hope for the year to come. Please take care and I’ll catch you on the flip side!

Safe & Sound

Posted in Culture, Exploring Turkey, Istanbul18 Comments

Greetings from Istanbul. The mood is decidedly despondent after yesterday’s tragic events. If you have not yet heard, there was an explosion on a very popular shopping street downtown. Six people were killed and nearly 80 others wounded. It was a picture perfect fall day with shoppers and families out enjoying the surprising November warmth. The events of yesterday brought back the not-so-distant memory of the Boston Marathon bombing in 2013. Another glorious day ripped apart by an act of senseless violence.

Before this terrible event unfolded, I took a little weekend adventure on the other side of the Bosphorus Strait. Istanbul is one of the only cities in the world that spans two continents and I hadn’t yet made it to the Asian side. With that in mind, I made a last minute AirBnB booking and Googled ferry departures.

There is a ferry terminal is located just off my main bus line, making for an easy transit. The ferry ride itself cost all of 80 cents and I was treated to a few stops on opposing sides of the canal before we moved into the open channel of the Bosphorus.

The Bosphorus Strait is over two miles wide at parts, giving the illusion of the open ocean at times. There was light chop on the water as the seagulls drafted our wake. Wooden benches lined the top deck and vendors rolled through, deftly brandishing tea in traditional glass cups, their sea legs the result of thousands of crossings over their lifetime.

We steamed for Kadıköy, a popular port neighborhood once home to prehistoric settlements of civilization. Today it’s a hot spot for nightlife, hipsters, and rich retirees – though they have mostly moved over to Moda, the calmer neighbor to the south. I found my sixth floor walk up and set up to enjoy the sunset from the rooftop.

I could hear the roar of the crowd from the football (soccer) stadium just over the hill. Day drinkers were hitting their stride and restaurants were beginning to set up on the streets below.

Kadikoy has a vibe all its own – very free spirited and relaxed. I checked out a record store and a few bookshops before meeting up with some friends from school who took a water taxi over from downtown. The restaurant scene appears to be pretty fabulous in Kadıköy, where you can find anything from Italian to Ottoman.

On Sunday, I awoke early to explore the neighborhood of Moda. With the bars only recently shuttered, I had the sunrise all to myself. Just me and the sea gulls.

Walking the perimeter of Moda, I met many a cat living in the rocks of the breakwater and watched the massive tankers on maneuvers out in the strait. Making my way back to Kadikoy’s ferry terminal, I boarded a boat bound for Karikoy to meet friends for brunch.

The morning couldn’t have been more glorious and my sweater was plenty warm despite the mid-November date. The gulls bobbed and weaved, occasionally flying between the posts on top deck while matching course and speed.

We sailed past the Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque, each lit up by single beams of sunlight as if on a movie set. I reveled in Istanbul’s beauty, on full display against the backdrop of a true blue autumn sky.

After docking, I made my way up to Galata Tower to enjoyed brunch with some new friends. We happily swapped stories of our respective weekends and enjoyed yet another delicious Turkish breakfast.

My thoughts are with the loved ones of those lost yesterday. Those who commit acts of terror wish to sow fear, to fracture relations and turn us against one another. But they will not keep me from exploring this city which I am growing to know, this culture I am only beginning to understand.

Street Cats

Posted in Culture, Istanbul2 Comments

This one is near and dear to my heart, considering that I brought my own little expat cat to this City of Kitties. No longer a kitten, Moloko is onto her third country at not even 4 years of age. As you can see from the photos below, she has it made in the shade here in Turkey. She’s adjusted very well and, of course, makes for wonderful company.

This past weekend, Mol held down the fort as I spent the night downtown in the Cihangir neighborhood near Taksim Square. Known for its bohemian vibes, Cihangir is where I’ve spent most of my time downtown since arriving. Dotted with antique shops, cute cafes, and street art, Cihangir has a lot of charm and, of course, a lot of cats.

I spent the night at the Hotel Corinne. The hotel is located just down the street from one of the oldest hamams (bathhouses) in Istanbul, the Tarihi Galatasaray Hamamı, which dates back to 1481. Walking the historic and narrow streets of Cihangir, dodging motorbikes and taxis, I was struck by the beauty of the Corinne’s lobby and bar on an earlier trip. Looked like the perfect place to enjoy a G&T and good conversation. Turns out, I was correct!

My good friend Julie met me for that drink. Julie and I arrived in Moscow the same year and we haven’t seen each other since I left in June of 2021. I took her to Hodan, a basement terrace full of modern art, delicious Turkish fare, and pitch perfect ambiance. Cats wandered through the restaurant terrace as we caught up and enjoyed dishes featuring artichoke, eggplant, prawns, and peas. Even with mezze-sized courses, we had no room for dessert.

Back to the cats… Cihangir, like so many neighborhoods of Istanbul, has a robust population of street cats. As I sipped my coffee in the Corinne lobby on Sunday morning, a few padded through the front door and made their breakfast requests known. It is so hard to deny those adorable, pleading eyes! One thing I will say is that, thankfully, the majority of the street cats I encounter appear to be well-fed, healthy, and have evidence of being spayed. Note the triangle missing from the ear on the cat below (top right). Just as street dogs are examined and tagged, local groups work to do the same for the cat population. Even so, it is estimated that up to one million feral cats live within Istanbul city limits. They even have their own documentary on Amazon Prime called Kedi. Check out the trailer here.

While dogs tend to roam on the outskirts of the city, like the fields near my school, cats are more adept at surviving in the tight confines of downtown. In many parts of the city, you will find bowls of food and water set out for the street cats. I’m told there are areas in which the cats are not treated well but, thus far, I’ve only seen locals looking out for them, paying for them to be spayed, and allowing them to mingle freely among the shops and cafes. Thankfully, Cihangir (below) and my neighborhood of Bahçeşehir are two such safe havens.

Back in the ‘burbs, Moloko continues to live her best Istanbul life. This week, she’ll have her first cat sitter while I travel to Dalyan with my Grade 7 students. My colleagues recommended Trusted Housesitters, a membership-based app and website which swaps free petsitting for free housing. Many people make their way around the world in this manner, enjoying new neighborhoods and countries while taking care of the precious pets who live in them. After using the Rover app in the States, this is a bit of a level up as people come with background checks, reviews, and in-depth personal profiles. Mol will have a number of Trusted Housesitters this fall, all of whom come highly recommended and excited to meet her. Should you be interested in joining the site, click this link for 25% off.

Time to pack and prepare to spend four days with 40 wacky and wonderful Grade 7 students. We fly direct to Dalyan and head straight to a sea turtle rescue. Also on the agenda – a visit to a pomegranate farm and an afternoon at the beach. With warmer temps still in effect in southwest Turkey, I’ve got no complaints! Stories from the trip to follow. Wishing you all a wonderful week.