Travels with My Aunt

New landscapes, new customs. The accumulation of memories. A long life is not a question of years. A man without memories might reach the age of a hundred and feel that his life had been a very brief one. – Graham Greene, Travels with My Aunt

Carpe diem, indeed. My aunt Susan (affectionately known as Suz) has certainly seized the opportunity in her travel existence. Over the past decade, she’s come to visit me in each country in which I’ve lived – South Korea, Russia, and now Türkiye.

Traveling solo from her small town in Maine, I greatly appreciate her effort to visit and always enjoy our time together. Suz is an appreciator of the Arts, often taking me to the Museum of Fine Arts Boston for my birthday when I was young.

Istanbul, Türkiye (April 2024)

We started off the visit on a swanky note with a stay at the Pera Palace Hotel. Though I’ve been for Sunday tea, I had never spent the night.

The Pera Palace Hotel has provided respite for many visitors to Istanbul. Famous guests include Agatha Christie, Ernest Hemingway, and Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis (we stayed next door to her room). It seemed all too fitting to learn that American writer Graham Greene had featured the hotel in his 1969 novel, “Travels with My Aunt”.

The hotel proved a fantastic spot to get our feet wet downtown – we drank çay at sidewalk cafes, did some shopping, and visited one of the few Catholic churches in Istanbul (certainly the largest) – St. Anthony of Padua.

April is simply the perfect time to Istanbul. The warm spring sun was quite a foil for the nor’easter Suz left behind in Maine. Trading snow for tulip season proved the perfect antidote.

Emirgan Park was our first stop, soaking in the gorgeous carpet of tulips blanketing the park. We were happy to trade the hustle of the city for quiet meditation, possible only early in tulip season, before so many visitors decend. We also took in the Sakıp Sabancı Museum, learning of the Modernist path pursued by Turkish painters in the late 1800s. A stunning terrace view of the Bosphorus can be seen from the museum’s front yard.

After our time at Emirgan Park, we shifted to a hotel in Sultanahmet (Hotel Arcadia Blue). Ideal for it’s proximity to the major sights (I’m currently recovering from a bit of knee surgery), we explored the Hagia Sophia, the Blue Mosque, and even took in a whirling dervish show featuring local musicians.

As always, the Grand Bazaar was a highlight (Suz took to Turkish coffee like a pro). We also enjoyed our time at the Spice Bazaar (Mısır Çarşısı). Many fine Turkish treats are currently en route to Hallowell, Maine!

On the recommendation of my friend Monique, we checked out Pandeli Restaurant. Tucked away above the unassuming Eminönü entrance to the spice bazaar, the restaurant has been in business since 1901. While famous guests like Queen Elizabeth II and Audrey Hepburn have enjoyed lunch in these quarters, the menu remains affordable and delicious. The famous blue tiles added to the ambiance.

Our time downtown soon came to a close. With the bayram holiday (Eid) quickly approaching, it was time to clear out of Istanbul and see more of the Turkish countryside. We were off to Bursa and İznik.

Tulips

Spring has come to Istanbul and it has brought many visitors from the States. Over the past few weeks, I’ve had the chance to welcome my parents, close family friends, and good friend Tori from Vermont. It’s the perfect time of year to tour Turkey, with cool temps a decent chance of sunshine, and tulips in bloom!

Tulips are a big deal here. They are displayed in mosaics on sidewalks (see the icon of this blog), embroidered on textiles, and – as I’ve come to find – blanket Istanbul parks and medians from April through May.

Tulips were brought from Turkey to Holland in the 1500s. It is suspected that bulbs were first transported from Turkey to Austria by an ambassador of the Hapsburg Empire (Marie Antoinette’s fam). In Vienna, botanist Carolus Clusius worked to develop the tulip. Clusius then brought the tulip to the Netherlands after he was named director of the botanic gardens at Leiden University.

I’ve known of the tulip’s origin since my mom and I visited the Tulip Museum in Amsterdam back in 2018. There, the Dutch acknowledged that tulips have their origins in Turkey. In fact, the botanical name for tulips is derived from the Turkish word “tulbend” or “turban”, which the flower resembles.

After arriving in Istanbul, I had heard rumor of a must-see tulip garden called Emirgan Park. When my parents confirmed their visit for April, I knew I would take my mom to see it.

Once we entered the park, the gorgeous tulips surrounded us. Given the limited time that the tulips are in bloom, all of Istanbul turned out to take advantage of the beautiful weather. Families set up picnics and photo shoots to enjoy the good vibes.

The garden visit was a nice bookend to our trip to Amsterdam back in 2018. Really special to host family here in Istanbul and thankful to those willing to make the trip.

Touring around Istanbul was loads of fun but we also had other plans just across the Aegean. To be continued…