Expat in Turkey – The Turquoise Chronicles

Ne var, ne yok?

June 17, 2024June 17, 2024 Posted in Arts in Turkey, Exploring Turkey, Saying Goodbye, Turkey7 Comments

“Ne var, ne yok?” Turks use this phrase casually to ask “how’s it going?” or “what’s happening?”. In actuality, the phrase translates to “what exists, what does not exist?”. Just as very little in Turkey was what it seemed, this question has proved telling as I reflect upon my time spent there.

What does exist? Turkey is a diverse country full of welcoming people who are happy and proud to share their rich cultural traditions. At nearly every turn, a stunning vista – from fields of sunflowers to the turquoise Marmara Sea to ancient ruins alongside the highway – Turkey is gorgeous. Ancient history from so long ago it will stop you in your tracks. Stunning mosaics. Vaulted mosque ceilings which shimmer like the night sky. Outrageously delicious food – kaymak, kofte, and pide. And the Grand Bazaar – oh my word – the textiles.

Turkey is a fish-out-of-water experience. From the call to prayer to tractors on the roadways to midnight rumblings of earthquakes (was the ground shaking or is it just me?), Turkey will jostle you. “I had come to Istanbul, a city with which I had many romantic associations but little practical experience” (Elif Batuman, New Yorker).

What does not exist? A system of rule, a sense of collective imperative for the greater good, common sense which aligns with Western philosophy, rational thought surrounding animal welfare. Currently, economic stability is lacking, too. In my two years in country, I dealt with enough circular bureaucratic madness to drive a person to drink. I won’t go into many details but my experience in Turkey was made stressful right up until the bitter end due to a lack communication between the ever-changing bureaucratic “laws” and the actual reality of everyday life. I walk away feeling that I have some understandings of the “system” but I sure don’t respect it. Mark my words, there are many reasons that Turkey will never be invited to join the EU.

What will I remember? Delicious Turkish breakfasts, the trip to Edirne with Kasia, Indian food nights with Tracey and Zach, exploring Cappadocia with Michele. My beautiful friends who opened their lives and their homes to me in this country that they love so dear. I will miss them terribly.

Boat trips on the Bosphorus, First Fridays at Bira with the B-town crew, and visits to so many gorgeous mosques.

My beautiful students, especially my dedicated little Art Club. We had a wonderful time.

The trip to Dalyan with my students, visits from loved ones, and adventures to places like Georgia and Florence.

Isabel Allende writes, “there is no definitive separation as long as there is memory.” I am thankful to be leaving with wonderful memories, many of them shared with beautiful friends and some of them held close just for me.

As for now, my sojourn in the US this summer has begun in earnest. Moloko made it out of Turkey thanks to my amazing friends Deniz and Nilufer. In reflecting, her safety and mine are the only thing that really matters. Everything else is just material items, drama, and details.

Evans, Nilufer, Deniz, and I at the Staff Farewell Party

I’ve come to learn that I need to live in society which outlines its expectations more clearly. My time in Switzerland will bring many rules, some wacky (no toilet flushing after 9pm) and some useful (clear steps for visa applications). I look forward to sharing my journey in Lugano with you, starting in August.

Left: Our front yard in Bahçeşehir Right: Moloko safely home in Massachusetts

I’m off to France to teach painting for most of July. I’ll return for family time down the Cape in August. I feel so blessed to lead this existence and I hope many us cross paths over the next few months. The time has come to put my adventure in Turkey to rest. İyi akşamlar hocam. Goodbye, teacher.

Bucket List: İstanbul

May 12, 2024 Posted in Architecture, Art in Europe, Arts in Turkey, Culture, Istanbul, Turkey6 Comments

My time in İstanbul is quickly drawing to a close. By mid-June, I will be stateside. I have been lucky enought to host a bevy visitors this spring, friends and family alike. Checking out cultural sights, cozy cafes, and art stores with loved ones is the best. I’ve been checking off my bucket list as I go.

First up – a night at Georges Hotel. The hotel, located within spitting distance of Galata Tower, has been a favorite of mine due to its rooftop bar (Floor 5) featuring a 180 degree view of the Bosphorus, the Asian side, and the Sultanahmet area.

If you’re lucky enough to catch the call to prayer from that vantage point, you will hear it echo from multiple mosques, reverberating across the Beyoğlu, Cihangir, and Galataport neighborhoods. Emily and I were lucky enough to enjoy this experience, watching a nearly full moon rise over the Bosphorus and the warm glow of night lights appear across the landscape.

At the last minute, I chose to spend a night at the hotel, having been curious about the state of the place during my many visits for dinner with my guests. The room didn’t disappoint. Gorgeous hardwood floors and noise-cancelling windows, a little balcony for two with Galata Tower views was the cherry on top. Incredibly nice staff, including a lobby cat named Lollipop, made up my high praise for the experience.

Of course, no trip to Istanbul is complete without a visit to the Grand Bazaar. Emily and I shopped until we dropped, choosing lamps and carpets for family back home.

Our next stop was Dolmabahçe Palace. Just past the Kabataş ferry port (the end of Tram line 1) and across from Beşiktaş football stadium, this palace boasts a gorgeous waterfront property along the Bosphorus. When Emily and I visited, we found the gardens in full bloom and plenty of people posing for photographs along the waterfront.

The palace itself was wildly ostentatious – featuring a combination of Baroque, Rococo, and Neoclassical architecture. Home to six sultans, the building functioned as the main administrative center for the Ottoman Empire for multiple periods between 1856 and 1922. Building costs nearly exceeded the equivalent of 2 billion USD in today’s figures.

Lacking exhibition text with explanation, the tour through the building was a visual experience only. We chuckled when noting that the portrait artists wished to remain “anonymous” (vs. “unknown”). With newly introduced foreigner admission fees now in the range of $38USD, it is an expensive endeavor, one I feel you could probably experience from the gates and local surrounding area, if you were looking to save a buck or two.

I checked off another bucket list item, a weekend in Moda, just recently. Moda, a neighborhood of the more well-known Kadıköy is located on the Asian side of the Bosphorus. I booked an Airbnb featuring a gorgeous fourth floor deck with 360 degree views of the Princes’ Islands and the wide open sea. Taking the bus downtown after work, I arrived just in time for sunset on my first evening. The wind was stiff but it was glorious to sleep with the windows cracked to enjoy the salt air of the sea.

During my time on the Asian side, I also enjoyed lunch with friends at Çiya Sofrası in Kadıköy. Featuring Anatolian dishes, served since the Ottoman Empire days, the restaurant serves food that is moderate in spice, plentiful in rice, eggplant, and vegetable stews. My friends Michele and Monique joined me and we struggled to hear ourselves speak among the cheers of the football fans surrounding us. With drums played in the streets and a cheer for every occasion, the fans were certainly raring to go for the evening’s match at the nearby Fenerbahçe football stadium.

On my second night in Moda, I hosted downtown friends for meze (small Turkish dishes) and wine on the roof deck. We could hear the roar from the football stadium as well as the muezzin call at sunset. As day faded to evening, we soaked in the reflection of the moon on the open water, with ferries continuing to scurry locals from port to port well into the night.

As I count down to my final month in İstanbul, my bucket list is growing slim. Still on the list – a visit to Hisari Rumeli Castle Fortress (below left) and a ride on the Bosphorus in a water taxi (below right).

Enjoying time with good friends is paramount as I prepare to leave Istanbul. I have a few more visitors to welcome in the meanwhile. As excited as I am about the future, I’m in no rush for this special time to pass by. I will leave this gorgeous city with wonderful memories and no regrets.

The Egyptian consulate on the Bebek waterfront

Bursa + İznik

May 1, 2024 Posted in Architecture, Arts in Turkey, Culture, Exploring Turkey, TurkeyLeave a comment

Traveling around Turkiye is simply the best. This country is set up to be hospitable to travelers thanks to unique regional culture, easy smiles from the locals, and affordable transportation. I chose Bursa and İznik as destinations for the travel planned for my aunt and I. Both spots are former capitals of the Ottoman state and easily reachable within a few hours from Istanbul via bus.

Bursa was up first, the fourth largest city in Turkiye. Known originally for its textiles of silk and lace, Bursa is today the center of the Turkish automobile manufacturing industry. Mountains hug the city to the southeast and green space can be found throughout the city. Incredibly, human settlement has been present in the region since 5200BC. Wishing to stay within Bursa’s historic center, I located an Airbnb in a restored Ottoman home. The property sat on the hillside just above the historic Ottoman city walls.

Our spacious abode turned out to be a stroke of luck. As we were in town on the first day of bayram (Eid), most Turks were at home celebrating the holiday with family. It’s always difficult to tell what will be closed and what will be open on holidays in Turkey.

Hearing lots of foot traffic outside our home, we ventured out midday to see what the locals and tourists were up to. We sampled some baklava at a local cafe – it was the “sugar” eid, after all – and confirmed that the marketplace and historic sights were closed for the holiday.

Luckily, we had ventured out the night before to see the open air market, the Grand Bazaar, and the Ulu Cami (Grand Mosque of Bursa). Here is Suz enjoying her Instagram moment with the foothills of Uludag in the distance.

The Ulu Cami was built in the historic Ottoman Era but reads very contemporary. Reminiscient of the Eski Cami in Edirne, the walls featured calligraphic graffiti inside of the mosque (above, left). The effect was stunning. Children hollered at they raced around the carpeted floors and people sat in groups talking softly. I enjoyed Bursa and would love to return someday, particularly to explore the mountains surrounding the city.

Our second stop was İznik. Once known as Nicaea, the town is known as birthplace of the Nicene Creed (325AD). The town has also long been considered to be the center of ceramics in Turkey. Known for producing the 20,000 ceramic tiles which adorn the ceiling of Istanbul’s Blue Mosque, İznik today draws tourists with its ceramic studios, mosques, and lakeside location. The vibe here is similar to that of coastal southwest Turkey with less alcohol on offer (taps seem to dry up as you move into the middle/eastern regions of the country).

The whole town was walkable from our hotel by the waterfront. Having arrived from Bursa by Uber on the early side, the holiday mentality provided us the chance to look around before the crowds arrived.

Most of the ceramic shops and studios fall along the main tree-lined street (above, left). The road caps off at the İznik Castle Walls (above, right). Many modest local homes are enmeshed within the fortress walls which ring the downtown.

I was excited to find that the Turkish Islamic Arts Museum was open, despite the holiday. Located just across from the Green Mosque, the museum outlines the history of ceramics, textiles, and metal within the region in perfect bite-sized pieces – no more than 30 minutes needed to take it all in. İznik also features it’s own Hagia Sophia, a gorgeous Byzantine Church with origins dating back to the 4th century. The church is now a working mosque and I found the oculus and the stadium seating intriguing.

Suz and I had fun exploring the many shops featuring ceramics throughout the downtown. We happened upon a few with original ceramic designs (one working with terracotta instead of porcelain) and spoke to a few of artists themselves. Other shops featured pottery made from molds, which could be equally charming.

Before we knew it, the time had come to return to Istanbul. Soon Suz was back in Maine with her beloved pups and I returned to school to finish my final semester in Turkey. I’m so glad we could have this time together and explore more of what Turkey has to offer, outside the big city of Istanbul. As always, our days by the lake went too fast 🙂

Travels with My Aunt

April 14, 2024April 14, 2024 Posted in Architecture, Art in Europe, Arts in Turkey, Culture, Exploring Turkey, Istanbul, Turkey6 Comments

New landscapes, new customs. The accumulation of memories. A long life is not a question of years. A man without memories might reach the age of a hundred and feel that his life had been a very brief one. – Graham Greene, Travels with My Aunt

Carpe diem, indeed. My aunt Susan (affectionately known as Suz) has certainly seized the opportunity in her travel existence. Over the past decade, she’s come to visit me in each country in which I’ve lived – South Korea, Russia, and now Türkiye.

Traveling solo from her small town in Maine, I greatly appreciate her effort to visit and always enjoy our time together. Suz is an appreciator of the Arts, often taking me to the Museum of Fine Arts Boston for my birthday when I was young.

We started off the visit on a swanky note with a stay at the Pera Palace Hotel. Though I’ve been for Sunday tea, I had never spent the night.

The Pera Palace Hotel has provided respite for many visitors to Istanbul. Famous guests include Agatha Christie, Ernest Hemingway, and Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis (we stayed next door to her room). It seemed all too fitting to learn that American writer Graham Greene had featured the hotel in his 1969 novel, “Travels with My Aunt”.

The hotel proved a fantastic spot to get our feet wet downtown – we drank çay at sidewalk cafes, did some shopping, and visited one of the few Catholic churches in Istanbul (certainly the largest) – St. Anthony of Padua.

April is simply the perfect time to Istanbul. The warm spring sun was quite a foil for the nor’easter Suz left behind in Maine. Trading snow for tulip season proved the perfect antidote.

Emirgan Park was our first stop, soaking in the gorgeous carpet of tulips blanketing the park. We were happy to trade the hustle of the city for quiet meditation, possible only early in tulip season, before so many visitors decend. We also took in the Sakıp Sabancı Museum, learning of the Modernist path pursued by Turkish painters in the late 1800s. A stunning terrace view of the Bosphorus can be seen from the museum’s front yard.

After our time at Emirgan Park, we shifted to a hotel in Sultanahmet (Hotel Arcadia Blue). Ideal for it’s proximity to the major sights (I’m currently recovering from a bit of knee surgery), we explored the Hagia Sophia, the Blue Mosque, and even took in a whirling dervish show featuring local musicians.

As always, the Grand Bazaar was a highlight (Suz took to Turkish coffee like a pro). We also enjoyed our time at the Spice Bazaar (Mısır Çarşısı). Many fine Turkish treats are currently en route to Hallowell, Maine!

On the recommendation of my friend Monique, we checked out Pandeli Restaurant. Tucked away above the unassuming Eminönü entrance to the spice bazaar, the restaurant has been in business since 1901. While famous guests like Queen Elizabeth II and Audrey Hepburn have enjoyed lunch in these quarters, the menu remains affordable and delicious. The famous blue tiles added to the ambiance.

Our time downtown soon came to a close. With the bayram holiday (Eid) quickly approaching, it was time to clear out of Istanbul and see more of the Turkish countryside. We were off to Bursa and İznik.

Modern Masters

March 29, 2024 Posted in Architecture, Art in Europe, Arts in Turkey, Culture, Istanbul, Turkey2 Comments

Ara Güler and Devrim Erbil. Two artists as intrinsically linked to Istanbul as çay (tea) and the Hagia Sophia. I’ve come to admire both reverently. Their artworks capture diverse aspects this city, from Istanbul’s mystical link to the sea to the iconic skyline dotted with mosques and minarets. Quite simply, the two artists are modern Turkish masters. Nobody does Istanbul better.

“The Eye of Istanbul”, Ara Güler passed away in 2018. His 90 years on this earth were heavily devoted to capturing the essence of the city. A dedicated photojournalist, Ara strode the cobblestone streets of Pera and walked the docks of Karaköy, capturing gorgeous black and white photographs full of contrast and contrasts.

“We record our period and leave it to the next generation.” – Ara Güler

The faces of his subjects capture the prevalent philosophy of the Turkish people who work this city. From the grungy waterfront culture to the old men playing backgammon on the sidewalk, Ara embraced befriended them all.

Children playing in Tophane, Istanbul, 1986

He captured that ineffable juxtaposition of hope in a better tomorrow and a resigned submission that no matter one’s effort, what will be will be. The self-determined American in me bristles at this take. Somewhere in the back of my mind, however, I do wonder if they know something I do not, given roughly 40,000 years of human inhabitance in the region (since the late Paleolithic period, to be precise).

Last month, I visited the Ara Güler Museum in Istanbul’s Bomonti neighborhood. The exhibition space is small, a few brick walled rooms in a restored beer factory.

On display, photographs from outside of Istanbul, into the villages of Türkiye’s Anatolia region (also known as Asia Minor).

Featuring vibrant colors and careful composition techniques, Ara’s obvious respect and love for his homeland radiates from the glossy prints.

The photo above, taken outside Istanbul’s Sokollu Mehmet Pasha Mosque, highlights the essence of Istanbul from the perspective of a small child – low to the ground, fighting for balance, and a sky full of Ottoman architecture.

Ara Güler died in 2018. Istanbul native writer, Orhan Pamuk, wrote this tribute called ‘I Like Your Photographs Because They Are Beautiful’ to honor his friend’s life and legacy. The piece features many of Ara’s most powerful images.

Devrim Erbil
*The Printmaker of Istanbul*

“[Devrim Erbil] is known for his poetic interpretations of Istanbul’s cityscape, which capture the dynamic pulse and historic textures of the city. Erbil’s style brings together traditional motifs and contemporary sensibilities, often featuring a birds-eye view and a vibrant palette that represent the bustling life and scenic vistas of Istanbul.”

Passion for Istanbul (Red), Devrim Erbil

Known for his repetitive mark-making and bright, sometimes metallic pieces, Erbil’s prints are instantly identifiable. Awarded the title of “State Artist” in 2019, Erbil has over six decades of practice under his belt and is also a professor at Doğuş University on the Asian side of Istanbul.

It has been a goal of mine to locate a Erbil print before departing the city. During February school break, as my uncle and I walked through Kadıköy on Istanbul’s Asian side, we stopped into an art gallery on one of the main streets.

The gallery had a number of Erbil’s most common prints – monochromatic cityscapes featuring murmurations of birds rising in flight above the Bosphorus. I enjoyed them but nothing caught my eye until I spotted this piece below.

Featuring Erbil’s interpretation of the inside of the Hagia Sophia, the print captures the storied building in shimmering glory. Using flaking gold leaf to represent the 1500 year old ceiling as it stands today, Erbil employs a bright blue to represent the sky and green shrubbery on the floor below. The indoor/outdoor juxtaposition reminds me of all the iterations that this place of worship has taken on since Justinian ordered its creation. I also love the circular calligraphic panes written in Arabic which are visible within the print, immediately reminding the view of the famous building represented within.

Needless to say, I caught the ferry from Kabataş later that week and purchased my Erbil print. It’s now carefully rolled, awaiting transport to my future home on Montagnola, where it will become another wonderful reminder of my two years in Türkiye.

The Galata Bridge at Midday, Ara Güler, 1954

During my time in Istanbul, I’ve been lucky to be introduced to many artists, both historic and contemporary. Devrim and Güler stand out not only for their notoriety but also for their dedication to the city. Both artists will be featured in art history books for having sought to capture and make some sense of the frenetic energy of this city of seven hills.

Edirne

March 17, 2024 Posted in Architecture, Art in Europe, Arts in Turkey, Culture, Exploring Turkey, Turkey5 Comments

Last weekend, my friend Kasia and I took a train journey to the northwest of Türkiye, right on the Bulgarian border. Both fans of history and architecture, we had been talking about making this trip for months. With a newly opened railroad stop in our little park and Kasia’s determination to purchase the tickets (never a simple endeavor in Turkey), we finally made it happen!

A light rain fell upon us as we boarded the train at Ispartakule. We quickly entered the Turkish countryside, sidling by my school on the Bulgaria-bound tracks. As is often the case, the train took extra long stops at multiple stations, arriving in Edirne about an hour late. With a roundtrip ticket cost of 370 Turkish lira ($12 USD), one really can’t complain.

A gorgeous morning greeted us on our first day in Edirne. Finishing breakfast at the West Door Hotel (I’d give it three stars for its central location), we set out on foot. A former capital of the Ottoman Empire, prior to Constantinople, Edirne boasts a number of gorgeous mosques, a health museum, and a number of Roman ruins. We chose the Selimiye Mosque as our first destination.

Edirne town center with Roman ruins in the foreground and the Eski (Old) Mosque behind.

Edirne’s “modern” history begins in 510BC when the Persian Empire ruled this land. The Byzantine Empire followed and Edirne remained under Byzantine rule after the empire split from the Romans in 395BC. Macedonian Phillip II (the father of Alexander the Great) took over as ruler in 340BC.

Edirne is located in area labelled “Thrace” in the upper lefthand corner of the Persian Empire

Fast forward a few millennia to the 14th century and the Ottomans were in charge of much of southeast Europe, North Africa, and West Asia. In 1395, Edirne was named the capital of the Ottoman Empire.

The Selimiye Mosque – truly stunning in its geometric tiles and vaulted ceilings. Named a UNESCO world heritage site in 2011, much of the mosque remains under renovation. Even so, the intricate craftsmanship and sweeping elegance was readily apparent.

The Selimiye Mosque was designed and executed by Imperial architect Mimar Sinan between 1568-1575. A prolific architect, Sinan completed projects all over the Ottoman Empire, including the Kanuni Sultan Suleiman Bridge located in Büyükçekmece (close to my school).

The Eski Camii (ie. mosque, pronounced “ja-mee”) boasts one of the most unique mosque interiors I’ve ever experienced. Almost contemporary in appearance, the ground level features the eight names of Islam in huge calligraphic scroll. The “W”-like inscription on the left translates to “Allah”, or God.

Drawing the eye upwards from the darkness and into the light, the mosque features an oculus representing the vault of heaven.

In 1453, Edirne lost its title when the Ottoman capital was moved to Constantinople (present day Istanbul) but the city remained a summer sanctuary for sultans and rulers. In 1828, Edirne was occupied by the Russians. Next came occupation by the Bulgarians in 1913, then the city was ceded to the Greeks in 1920, and finally restored to Turkish control in 1922.

The Health Museum lies across a river from downtown Edirne. This bucolic setting was chosen as a külliye (building complex including a mosque and clinic), the perfect spot for Ottoman scholars to study medicine beginning in the year 1488.

During the Ottoman period, the imaret or “soup kitchen” came to be. With the goal of feeding the poor, travelers, and students in proportion with that of the local community, the soup kitchen was a forward-thinking concept birthed by the Ottomans.

Today Edirne is a tourist destination, known for its mosques, fruit soaps, liver (tava ciğer), and keçecizade, an almond paste (featuring twice as many almonds as marzipan). I felt particularly lucky to visit Edirne on the cusp of Ramadan, a month of fasting, prayer, and reflection.

The last stop on our “Camii Tour” took us to the Üç Şerefeli Mosque (“three balconies”, as seen on the minaret above right). The gorgeous floral patterns evoke a Chinese influence and bricks of limestone highlight the unusual designs on the structure’s four minarets.

After a day of camii-hopping, we searched for a spot to enjoy a drink. Hard to find in a fairly dry Turkish town, we hit a few roadblocks before discovering Woodhouse around the corner from Papa’s Cafe Bar. As we walked home, the streets were calm once again, devoid of the afternoon tourists seeking their fix of the famous Edirne ciğer.

All too soon, it was time to head back to Bahçeşehir. On Sunday morning, we caught our train at the Edirne Gar and enjoyed pastoral views of the Turkish countryside. I am so happy we were able to take this weekend visit to Edirne, leaving me with an even greater appreciation for the accomplishments of the Ottoman Empire. Up next… a visit to Bursa and Iznik with my aunt Susan!

24 Hours in Istanbul

March 5, 2024 Posted in Architecture, Arts in Turkey, Culture, Exploring Turkey, Istanbul, Turkey2 Comments

I’ve been lucky enough to be visited by three visitors in recent weeks. My uncle Doug joined me for the start of my February break. My former student (now an employed college graduate!) stopped by on his way to Seoul. And most recently, I met up with my college roommate’s sister-in-law from Maine. Exploring Istanbul is always fun but it’s even better to see it through fresh eyes.

My Top Ten Istanbul (in no particular order):

Cafe Privato
Galata Tower
Arada Cafe (Turkish-Lebanese breakfast)
Balat
The Grand Bazaar
Roundtrip ferry ride to Kadıköy (Güven Sanat, Coffee Pots, Seven Sanat Galerisi) and a return to Karakoy
Basilica Cistern (Yerebatan Sarnıcı in Turkish)
Hagia Sophia (now costs 25 euro/ticket), guided tour then lunch at Dubb
Minoa Akaretler (bookstore and cafe in Beşiktaş and Pera)
The Fatih Mosque (dinner at Buuzecedi Restaurant)

Doug and I saw the sights, from the Basilica Cisterns to Balat. He tried salep (a resounding yes), enjoyed Syrian food, and quizzed our tour guide at the Hagia Sophia. We explored a lot in just a few days and, all too soon, he was off to Bangkok.

All this touring has me thinking about what I would still like to see in this city of seven hills. A meal at Çiya Sofrası tops the list (traditional Turkish cuisine on the Asian side). A visit to the Sabatchi Museum during tulip season is a definite must. I did check one thing off the list that week – after Doug departed, I visited the Bomonti neighborhood and finally made it to the Ara Güler Müzesi.

Ara Güler, People sitting talking beside a coffee bar in Beyoglu, 1958

Just a few days later, another visitor arrived in town. David, my former student from APIS, came through for a long layover. Like something out of Anthony Bourdain, we made the most of the 24 hours David was on the ground. Dinner on the George’s Hotel Terrace (elevator to Floor 5) with dessert at Mahizer’s sidewalk cafe off Taksim. A trip to Sultanahmet and the Arasta Bazaar. Even a stop through the Pera Museum to see the contemporary and historic mix of arts and culture of the region.

After meeting up with Rachel, we headed to the Istanbul Modern and took in the new exhibitions. As Rachel is a boatbuilder from Rockland, Maine, it seemed only natural to get out on the water. We took the Karakoy/Eminonu/Kadikoy ferry loop, enjoying the views from the top deck. Dinner at Karaköy Gümrük capped off the evening and soon Rachel was on her way.

More visitors are on their way this spring, with more sights to be seen. This city certainly has a special hold over all who are lucky enough to visit – the essence of which was beautifully captured by the poet Orhan Veli (translated by Talat Sait Halman). I leave you with his poem, I Am Listening to Istanbul, a recent recommendation from a friend.

I am listening to Istanbul, intent, my eyes closed:

At first there is a gentle breeze

And the leaves on the trees

Softly sway;

Out there, far away,

The bells of water-carriers unceasingly ring;

I am listening to Istanbul, intent, my eyes closed.

I am listening to Istanbul, intent, my eyes closed;

Then suddenly birds fly by,

Flocks of birds, high up, with a hue and cry,

While the nets are drawn in the fishing grounds

And a woman’s feet begin to dabble in the water.

I am listening to Istanbul, intent, my eyes closed.

I am listening to Istanbul, intent, my eyes closed.

The Grand Bazaar’s serene and cool,

An uproar at the hub of the Market,

Mosque yards are full of pigeons.

While hammers bang and clang at the docks

Spring winds bear the smell of sweat;

I am listening to Istanbul, intent, my eyes closed.

I am listening to Istanbul, intent, my eyes closed;

Still giddy from the revelries of the past,

A seaside mansion with dingy boathouses is fast asleep.

Amid the din and drone of southern winds, reposed,

I am listening to Istanbul, intent, my eyes closed.

Fairyland

February 11, 2024February 13, 2024 Posted in Arts in Turkey, Exploring Turkey, Turkey10 Comments

Cappadocia. Now that my time in Türkiye has an expiration date, I want to make the most of the time I have left. With my good friend on board, we hopped a Turkish Airlines flight to Kayseri and quickly found ourselves in a majestic foreign land.

Cappadocia is located at altitude in central Turkiye. The area is known for unique rock formations often referred to as fairy chimneys. The fairy chimneys are a result of a geologic process that began millions of years ago, when volcanic eruptions rained ash across what would eventually become Turkey. That ash hardened into tuff, a porous rock, which was covered by a layer of basalt. Carved by centuries (millennia?) of wind and water flow, these rock formations blanket the landscape like something out of a Dr. Seuss book.

The Kelebek Special Cave Hotel came highly recommended and featured rooms carved into the fairy chimneys themselves. My room was surprisingly warm and toasty inside. Draped in textiles and texture, it proved an insulated spot for a great night’s sleep.

From Kelebek’s mountain top location we were treated to a beautiful vista featuring the lights of the surrounding valley. Like a game of shoots and ladders, hotels and homes were stacked and folded into the stone pathways willy-nilly. The landscape was punctuated by smoke from the fairy chimneys rising in the air, providing a mystical vibe against the inky night’s sky.

We awoke Saturday morning to blue skies and no wind. Enjoying in a sun-soaked Turkish breakfast, we made a plan for the day ahead.

Opting to make our way slowly down the mountain towards town, we stopped to take photographs and explore little alleyways along the way. A funky antique shop lured us in and we were happily lost in the labyrinth for a while.

Just outside of downtown, the Goreme Open Air Museum offered the chance to enjoy the cliff dwellings up close and alongside the fairy chimneys.

We visited a number of neighboring towns, moving from valley to valley via quick 10-minute taxi rides (Uchisar and Ortahisar were highlights). Each town featured a monolithic castle formed out of the volcanic rock, a small marketplace, and plenty of cheeky cats.

Cappadocia is also known for hot air balloon rides. Much like you’d find a ski conditions chart at the front desk of a ski resort, the daily balloon status chart is located behind the reception desk at the Kelebek. Guests are encouraged to reserve a balloon ride for the first morning of your trip, as cancellations for inclement weather are common (safety first in an unexpected twist). You can always bump your reservation to the next day in hopes of enjoying a sunrise flight. My balloon was cancelled both days but I was just as pleased to explore the valleys from the ground. Would love to go back someday and see the balloons fly.

Turkey is such a friendly country to explore. Despite rising inflation, travel here is still in the visitor’s favor. The shopkeepers we met were all hospitable and kind, proudly showing their wares and eager to ask us about our country of origin.

Each town brought beautiful views. We soaked them in as best we could, stopping at little cafes along the way.

On our final night in Cappadocia, we decided to find a dinner spot with a view. Seten Restaurant, right up the road from the Kelebek Hotel, proved the perfect spot. Featuring Anatolian specials, Michele enjoyed the flaming local dish known as Testi Kebabı, or “pottery kebab”. Veal, tomato, pepper, garlic and onion slow-cooked inside of a clay pot in the wood fire and served with rice. The clay pot is cracked open at the table after being delivered on fire. Quite a sight! I’ve found Turkish desserts featuring tahini delicious, a juxtaposition against the sweetness of a typical dish. At Seten, I enjoyed a decadent tahini soufflé. Here’s the menu if you’d like to take a look.

One last treat of Cappadocia is the beautiful textile shops. My friend Tracey has known Ali, the owner of Sultan Carpets in downtown Göreme, for many years and he welcomed us warmly.

Both Michele and I brought large souvenirs home (Michele’s on the left, mine on the right), a memory of Cappadocia to last. Seen here, Moloko breaking in my new carpet which we’ll take to Switzerland.

It boggles my mind that such a landscape is located only a short flight from Istanbul. A wonderful reminder of how restorative a weekend away can be and all that I still wish to see during my time in Turkey. Luckily, I have a few visitors on the way to join the fun…

Lodos

January 14, 2024January 14, 2024 Posted in Architecture, Arts in Turkey, Culture, Exploring Turkey, Istanbul, School Days, Turkey6 Comments

Happy New Year, everyone. Winter has arrived, with January bringing us rain and much cooler temperatures here in Turkey. We’ve had snow flurries here and there but nothing has stuck quite yet. Winter in Turkey really runs from January through March and the lead up can bring some pretty intense winds. These winds are known as lodos.

View of the Bosphorus from the terrace of the Istanbul Modern Museum of Art

The lodos are strong winds originating in the Aegean Sea to the south of Istanbul. These winds are strong enough to redirect currents and can wreck havoc on shipping in the Bosphorus, with winds at the level of a strong gale or 50 knots (a 9-10 on the Beaufort scale, so I read).

A field trip to the Istanbul Modern with my IB Visual Art students

Lodos winds step beyond the realm of a natural phenomenon, arriving replete with their own folklore in Turkish culture. When the lodos blow, headaches, sleeplessness, and overly emotional thinking may all occur.

In the spirit of the new year, I’m choosing to view lodos as winds of change. As the Scorpians sang (or the CIA wrote?), “The future is in the air, I can feel it everywhere”. They may have been referring to the approaching end to the Cold War, but, for me, these lines refer to potential changes in latitude in 2024.

Back in late October I had to grapple with the choice of continuing my time here in Turkey or setting my sights elsewhere, to another international post. As those of you who have been reading this blog are likely aware, my time in Turkey brought incredible opportunities my way – from fantastic new friends to unique travel destinations such as Georgia and Romania. The international school timeline means a teacher could go months between deciding to turn down a contract to securing a new position, and that’s if you’re lucky enough to receive an offer. It’s quite a cliff to dive off – not one I take lightly.

Selections from talented contemporary Turkish artists

In the end, I have decided to bring my time in Turkey to a close. Moloko and I will depart Istanbul in June 2024, having enjoyed a dynamic two years in this exciting ancient city.

I’m excited to share that I have taken a position at the American School in Switzerland (TASIS), my alma mater of sorts from my camp counselor days. The school is nestled in the foothills of the Swiss Alps, on a small mountain called Montagnola. As a twenty-something, I spent four summers at TASIS, becoming acquainted with international life. I met friends and campers from all over the world, soaked in the gorgeous views of Lake Lugano, and took trains into the mountains on my days off.

My parents’ visit to Lugano, Summer 2007

I am very excited to return to TASIS, this time as a faculty member of the Visual Arts Department. I will continue teaching IB Visual Arts, and also have the chance to teach drawing, painting, and the like. This new chapter in Lugano will begin in August 2024. Visitors are most definitely welcome!

Mom and I on Montagnola, overlooking Lake Lugano

A new year brings the promise of change. It is never easy to depart from a place where meaningful relationships run deep. However, I do believe that there is a beauty in the time and place where our lives cross with others. I will take the next few months to relish these relationships amidst the backdrop of Istanbul. I have a few visitors from home headed my way and I remain a devoted tourist in this land of surprises. The next stop on my tour of Turkey… Cappadocia!

Balat

October 7, 2023 Posted in Culture, Exploring Turkey, Istanbul, Turkey2 Comments

One of Istanbul’s oldest and most charming districts, Balat has a long history as the center of the city’s Jewish, Armenian, and Greek Orthodox communities. Balat today is overwhelmingly Muslim, with most minority populations having left the district or been forced to leave. Colorful two- and three-storey houses line the streets, making the neighborhood a hotspot for those drawn to the charm of “Insta-nbul” 😉

We started the day in central Fatih, retracing the path of my Syrian food last winter. Fortified by a brunch of hummus, falafel, and pickled vegetables, we walked past the Fatih Camii (mosque) and through the hilly backstreets to Balat. Ornate architectural touches dotted our path.

Pops of color beckoned around each corner alongside crumbling sidewalks and structures. This dichotomy of beauty and detritus is woven into the fabric of Istanbul, and it certainly something I’ve come to appreciate. You can’t have one without the other – they enhance each other.

We knew we’d reached Balat when the cafes spilled out into the street and cute boutiques appeared at every turn. After an iced coffee at Artlocalist, we went on a little hunt for treasures to bring back to friends and family in the States.

Balat proved just as charming as promised. As autumn makes its way towards Istanbul, I look forward to the chance to walk the streets far from the madding crowd that is tourist season here. I will return to see the beautiful painted ceiling of the Yanbol Synagogue and take in a new cafe someday soon.

I would be remiss to not mention that this post was delayed due to the passing of my Uncle Dick. It’s hard to believe that he has left us but I’m also thankful that dementia no longer holds a grip on his keen intellect.

I love this picture of all of us down the Cape years ago. We spent many a summer in East Dennis, famously tagging downed trees together after Hurricane Bob in 1991. He taught me how to play chess and never let me win at Scrabble – not even once 😉 He was always a supporter of my life abroad, eager to discuss foreign affairs and current events when I returned to the States for a visit.

I’m very thankful for the opportunity to be with my family and honor his memory. My time in Maine was peaceful, spent along the Kennebec River where he and my aunt made their home. His legacy of service to the state of Maine lives on in the stories told by those who knew him best. He will be missed.

The Turquoise Chronicles

Tales of Expat Life in Istanbul

Tag: Expat in Turkey

Ne var, ne yok?

Bucket List: İstanbul

Bursa + İznik

Travels with My Aunt

Modern Masters

Edirne

24 Hours in Istanbul

Fairyland

Lodos

Balat