Ara Güler and Devrim Erbil. Two artists as intrinsically linked to Istanbul as çay (tea) and the Hagia Sophia. I’ve come to admire both reverently. Their artworks capture diverse aspects this city, from Istanbul’s mystical link to the sea to the iconic skyline dotted with mosques and minarets. Quite simply, the two artists are modern Turkish masters. Nobody does Istanbul better.

“The Eye of Istanbul”, Ara Güler passed away in 2018. His 90 years on this earth were heavily devoted to capturing the essence of the city. A dedicated photojournalist, Ara strode the cobblestone streets of Pera and walked the docks of Karaköy, capturing gorgeous black and white photographs full of contrast and contrasts.

The faces of his subjects capture the prevalent philosophy of the Turkish people who work this city. From the grungy waterfront culture to the old men playing backgammon on the sidewalk, Ara embraced befriended them all.

He captured that ineffable juxtaposition of hope in a better tomorrow and a resigned submission that no matter one’s effort, what will be will be. The self-determined American in me bristles at this take. Somewhere in the back of my mind, however, I do wonder if they know something I do not, given roughly 40,000 years of human inhabitance in the region (since the late Paleolithic period, to be precise).

Last month, I visited the Ara Güler Museum in Istanbul’s Bomonti neighborhood. The exhibition space is small, a few brick walled rooms in a restored beer factory.

On display, photographs from outside of Istanbul, into the villages of Türkiye’s Anatolia region (also known as Asia Minor).

Featuring vibrant colors and careful composition techniques, Ara’s obvious respect and love for his homeland radiates from the glossy prints.

The photo above, taken outside Istanbul’s Sokollu Mehmet Pasha Mosque, highlights the essence of Istanbul from the perspective of a small child – low to the ground, fighting for balance, and a sky full of Ottoman architecture.

Ara Güler died in 2018. Istanbul native writer, Orhan Pamuk, wrote this tribute called ‘I Like Your Photographs Because They Are Beautiful’ to honor his friend’s life and legacy. The piece features many of Ara’s most powerful images.

“[Devrim Erbil] is known for his poetic interpretations of Istanbul’s cityscape, which capture the dynamic pulse and historic textures of the city. Erbil’s style brings together traditional motifs and contemporary sensibilities, often featuring a birds-eye view and a vibrant palette that represent the bustling life and scenic vistas of Istanbul.”

Known for his repetitive mark-making and bright, sometimes metallic pieces, Erbil’s prints are instantly identifiable. Awarded the title of “State Artist” in 2019, Erbil has over six decades of practice under his belt and is also a professor at Doğuş University on the Asian side of Istanbul.

It has been a goal of mine to locate a Erbil print before departing the city. During February school break, as my uncle and I walked through Kadıköy on Istanbul’s Asian side, we stopped into an art gallery on one of the main streets.

The gallery had a number of Erbil’s most common prints – monochromatic cityscapes featuring murmurations of birds rising in flight above the Bosphorus. I enjoyed them but nothing caught my eye until I spotted this piece below.

Featuring Erbil’s interpretation of the inside of the Hagia Sophia, the print captures the storied building in shimmering glory. Using flaking gold leaf to represent the 1500 year old ceiling as it stands today, Erbil employs a bright blue to represent the sky and green shrubbery on the floor below. The indoor/outdoor juxtaposition reminds me of all the iterations that this place of worship has taken on since Justinian ordered its creation. I also love the circular calligraphic panes written in Arabic which are visible within the print, immediately reminding the view of the famous building represented within.

Needless to say, I caught the ferry from Kabataş later that week and purchased my Erbil print. It’s now carefully rolled, awaiting transport to my future home on Montagnola, where it will become another wonderful reminder of my two years in Türkiye.

During my time in Istanbul, I’ve been lucky to be introduced to many artists, both historic and contemporary. Devrim and Güler stand out not only for their notoriety but also for their dedication to the city. Both artists will be featured in art history books for having sought to capture and make some sense of the frenetic energy of this city of seven hills.