Teaching in Istanbul – The Turquoise Chronicles

Ne var, ne yok?

June 17, 2024June 17, 2024 Posted in Arts in Turkey, Exploring Turkey, Saying Goodbye, Turkey7 Comments

“Ne var, ne yok?” Turks use this phrase casually to ask “how’s it going?” or “what’s happening?”. In actuality, the phrase translates to “what exists, what does not exist?”. Just as very little in Turkey was what it seemed, this question has proved telling as I reflect upon my time spent there.

What does exist? Turkey is a diverse country full of welcoming people who are happy and proud to share their rich cultural traditions. At nearly every turn, a stunning vista – from fields of sunflowers to the turquoise Marmara Sea to ancient ruins alongside the highway – Turkey is gorgeous. Ancient history from so long ago it will stop you in your tracks. Stunning mosaics. Vaulted mosque ceilings which shimmer like the night sky. Outrageously delicious food – kaymak, kofte, and pide. And the Grand Bazaar – oh my word – the textiles.

Turkey is a fish-out-of-water experience. From the call to prayer to tractors on the roadways to midnight rumblings of earthquakes (was the ground shaking or is it just me?), Turkey will jostle you. “I had come to Istanbul, a city with which I had many romantic associations but little practical experience” (Elif Batuman, New Yorker).

What does not exist? A system of rule, a sense of collective imperative for the greater good, common sense which aligns with Western philosophy, rational thought surrounding animal welfare. Currently, economic stability is lacking, too. In my two years in country, I dealt with enough circular bureaucratic madness to drive a person to drink. I won’t go into many details but my experience in Turkey was made stressful right up until the bitter end due to a lack communication between the ever-changing bureaucratic “laws” and the actual reality of everyday life. I walk away feeling that I have some understandings of the “system” but I sure don’t respect it. Mark my words, there are many reasons that Turkey will never be invited to join the EU.

What will I remember? Delicious Turkish breakfasts, the trip to Edirne with Kasia, Indian food nights with Tracey and Zach, exploring Cappadocia with Michele. My beautiful friends who opened their lives and their homes to me in this country that they love so dear. I will miss them terribly.

Boat trips on the Bosphorus, First Fridays at Bira with the B-town crew, and visits to so many gorgeous mosques.

My beautiful students, especially my dedicated little Art Club. We had a wonderful time.

The trip to Dalyan with my students, visits from loved ones, and adventures to places like Georgia and Florence.

Isabel Allende writes, “there is no definitive separation as long as there is memory.” I am thankful to be leaving with wonderful memories, many of them shared with beautiful friends and some of them held close just for me.

As for now, my sojourn in the US this summer has begun in earnest. Moloko made it out of Turkey thanks to my amazing friends Deniz and Nilufer. In reflecting, her safety and mine are the only thing that really matters. Everything else is just material items, drama, and details.

Evans, Nilufer, Deniz, and I at the Staff Farewell Party

I’ve come to learn that I need to live in society which outlines its expectations more clearly. My time in Switzerland will bring many rules, some wacky (no toilet flushing after 9pm) and some useful (clear steps for visa applications). I look forward to sharing my journey in Lugano with you, starting in August.

Left: Our front yard in Bahçeşehir Right: Moloko safely home in Massachusetts

I’m off to France to teach painting for most of July. I’ll return for family time down the Cape in August. I feel so blessed to lead this existence and I hope many us cross paths over the next few months. The time has come to put my adventure in Turkey to rest. İyi akşamlar hocam. Goodbye, teacher.

Bucket List: İstanbul

May 12, 2024 Posted in Architecture, Art in Europe, Arts in Turkey, Culture, Istanbul, Turkey6 Comments

My time in İstanbul is quickly drawing to a close. By mid-June, I will be stateside. I have been lucky enought to host a bevy visitors this spring, friends and family alike. Checking out cultural sights, cozy cafes, and art stores with loved ones is the best. I’ve been checking off my bucket list as I go.

First up – a night at Georges Hotel. The hotel, located within spitting distance of Galata Tower, has been a favorite of mine due to its rooftop bar (Floor 5) featuring a 180 degree view of the Bosphorus, the Asian side, and the Sultanahmet area.

If you’re lucky enough to catch the call to prayer from that vantage point, you will hear it echo from multiple mosques, reverberating across the Beyoğlu, Cihangir, and Galataport neighborhoods. Emily and I were lucky enough to enjoy this experience, watching a nearly full moon rise over the Bosphorus and the warm glow of night lights appear across the landscape.

At the last minute, I chose to spend a night at the hotel, having been curious about the state of the place during my many visits for dinner with my guests. The room didn’t disappoint. Gorgeous hardwood floors and noise-cancelling windows, a little balcony for two with Galata Tower views was the cherry on top. Incredibly nice staff, including a lobby cat named Lollipop, made up my high praise for the experience.

Of course, no trip to Istanbul is complete without a visit to the Grand Bazaar. Emily and I shopped until we dropped, choosing lamps and carpets for family back home.

Our next stop was Dolmabahçe Palace. Just past the Kabataş ferry port (the end of Tram line 1) and across from Beşiktaş football stadium, this palace boasts a gorgeous waterfront property along the Bosphorus. When Emily and I visited, we found the gardens in full bloom and plenty of people posing for photographs along the waterfront.

The palace itself was wildly ostentatious – featuring a combination of Baroque, Rococo, and Neoclassical architecture. Home to six sultans, the building functioned as the main administrative center for the Ottoman Empire for multiple periods between 1856 and 1922. Building costs nearly exceeded the equivalent of 2 billion USD in today’s figures.

Lacking exhibition text with explanation, the tour through the building was a visual experience only. We chuckled when noting that the portrait artists wished to remain “anonymous” (vs. “unknown”). With newly introduced foreigner admission fees now in the range of $38USD, it is an expensive endeavor, one I feel you could probably experience from the gates and local surrounding area, if you were looking to save a buck or two.

I checked off another bucket list item, a weekend in Moda, just recently. Moda, a neighborhood of the more well-known Kadıköy is located on the Asian side of the Bosphorus. I booked an Airbnb featuring a gorgeous fourth floor deck with 360 degree views of the Princes’ Islands and the wide open sea. Taking the bus downtown after work, I arrived just in time for sunset on my first evening. The wind was stiff but it was glorious to sleep with the windows cracked to enjoy the salt air of the sea.

During my time on the Asian side, I also enjoyed lunch with friends at Çiya Sofrası in Kadıköy. Featuring Anatolian dishes, served since the Ottoman Empire days, the restaurant serves food that is moderate in spice, plentiful in rice, eggplant, and vegetable stews. My friends Michele and Monique joined me and we struggled to hear ourselves speak among the cheers of the football fans surrounding us. With drums played in the streets and a cheer for every occasion, the fans were certainly raring to go for the evening’s match at the nearby Fenerbahçe football stadium.

On my second night in Moda, I hosted downtown friends for meze (small Turkish dishes) and wine on the roof deck. We could hear the roar from the football stadium as well as the muezzin call at sunset. As day faded to evening, we soaked in the reflection of the moon on the open water, with ferries continuing to scurry locals from port to port well into the night.

As I count down to my final month in İstanbul, my bucket list is growing slim. Still on the list – a visit to Hisari Rumeli Castle Fortress (below left) and a ride on the Bosphorus in a water taxi (below right).

Enjoying time with good friends is paramount as I prepare to leave Istanbul. I have a few more visitors to welcome in the meanwhile. As excited as I am about the future, I’m in no rush for this special time to pass by. I will leave this gorgeous city with wonderful memories and no regrets.

The Egyptian consulate on the Bebek waterfront

Modern Masters

March 29, 2024 Posted in Architecture, Art in Europe, Arts in Turkey, Culture, Istanbul, Turkey2 Comments

Ara Güler and Devrim Erbil. Two artists as intrinsically linked to Istanbul as çay (tea) and the Hagia Sophia. I’ve come to admire both reverently. Their artworks capture diverse aspects this city, from Istanbul’s mystical link to the sea to the iconic skyline dotted with mosques and minarets. Quite simply, the two artists are modern Turkish masters. Nobody does Istanbul better.

“The Eye of Istanbul”, Ara Güler passed away in 2018. His 90 years on this earth were heavily devoted to capturing the essence of the city. A dedicated photojournalist, Ara strode the cobblestone streets of Pera and walked the docks of Karaköy, capturing gorgeous black and white photographs full of contrast and contrasts.

“We record our period and leave it to the next generation.” – Ara Güler

The faces of his subjects capture the prevalent philosophy of the Turkish people who work this city. From the grungy waterfront culture to the old men playing backgammon on the sidewalk, Ara embraced befriended them all.

Children playing in Tophane, Istanbul, 1986

He captured that ineffable juxtaposition of hope in a better tomorrow and a resigned submission that no matter one’s effort, what will be will be. The self-determined American in me bristles at this take. Somewhere in the back of my mind, however, I do wonder if they know something I do not, given roughly 40,000 years of human inhabitance in the region (since the late Paleolithic period, to be precise).

Last month, I visited the Ara Güler Museum in Istanbul’s Bomonti neighborhood. The exhibition space is small, a few brick walled rooms in a restored beer factory.

On display, photographs from outside of Istanbul, into the villages of Türkiye’s Anatolia region (also known as Asia Minor).

Featuring vibrant colors and careful composition techniques, Ara’s obvious respect and love for his homeland radiates from the glossy prints.

The photo above, taken outside Istanbul’s Sokollu Mehmet Pasha Mosque, highlights the essence of Istanbul from the perspective of a small child – low to the ground, fighting for balance, and a sky full of Ottoman architecture.

Ara Güler died in 2018. Istanbul native writer, Orhan Pamuk, wrote this tribute called ‘I Like Your Photographs Because They Are Beautiful’ to honor his friend’s life and legacy. The piece features many of Ara’s most powerful images.

Devrim Erbil
*The Printmaker of Istanbul*

“[Devrim Erbil] is known for his poetic interpretations of Istanbul’s cityscape, which capture the dynamic pulse and historic textures of the city. Erbil’s style brings together traditional motifs and contemporary sensibilities, often featuring a birds-eye view and a vibrant palette that represent the bustling life and scenic vistas of Istanbul.”

Passion for Istanbul (Red), Devrim Erbil

Known for his repetitive mark-making and bright, sometimes metallic pieces, Erbil’s prints are instantly identifiable. Awarded the title of “State Artist” in 2019, Erbil has over six decades of practice under his belt and is also a professor at Doğuş University on the Asian side of Istanbul.

It has been a goal of mine to locate a Erbil print before departing the city. During February school break, as my uncle and I walked through Kadıköy on Istanbul’s Asian side, we stopped into an art gallery on one of the main streets.

The gallery had a number of Erbil’s most common prints – monochromatic cityscapes featuring murmurations of birds rising in flight above the Bosphorus. I enjoyed them but nothing caught my eye until I spotted this piece below.

Featuring Erbil’s interpretation of the inside of the Hagia Sophia, the print captures the storied building in shimmering glory. Using flaking gold leaf to represent the 1500 year old ceiling as it stands today, Erbil employs a bright blue to represent the sky and green shrubbery on the floor below. The indoor/outdoor juxtaposition reminds me of all the iterations that this place of worship has taken on since Justinian ordered its creation. I also love the circular calligraphic panes written in Arabic which are visible within the print, immediately reminding the view of the famous building represented within.

Needless to say, I caught the ferry from Kabataş later that week and purchased my Erbil print. It’s now carefully rolled, awaiting transport to my future home on Montagnola, where it will become another wonderful reminder of my two years in Türkiye.

The Galata Bridge at Midday, Ara Güler, 1954

During my time in Istanbul, I’ve been lucky to be introduced to many artists, both historic and contemporary. Devrim and Güler stand out not only for their notoriety but also for their dedication to the city. Both artists will be featured in art history books for having sought to capture and make some sense of the frenetic energy of this city of seven hills.

24 Hours in Istanbul

March 5, 2024 Posted in Architecture, Arts in Turkey, Culture, Exploring Turkey, Istanbul, Turkey2 Comments

I’ve been lucky enough to be visited by three visitors in recent weeks. My uncle Doug joined me for the start of my February break. My former student (now an employed college graduate!) stopped by on his way to Seoul. And most recently, I met up with my college roommate’s sister-in-law from Maine. Exploring Istanbul is always fun but it’s even better to see it through fresh eyes.

My Top Ten Istanbul (in no particular order):

Cafe Privato
Galata Tower
Arada Cafe (Turkish-Lebanese breakfast)
Balat
The Grand Bazaar
Roundtrip ferry ride to Kadıköy (Güven Sanat, Coffee Pots, Seven Sanat Galerisi) and a return to Karakoy
Basilica Cistern (Yerebatan Sarnıcı in Turkish)
Hagia Sophia (now costs 25 euro/ticket), guided tour then lunch at Dubb
Minoa Akaretler (bookstore and cafe in Beşiktaş and Pera)
The Fatih Mosque (dinner at Buuzecedi Restaurant)

Doug and I saw the sights, from the Basilica Cisterns to Balat. He tried salep (a resounding yes), enjoyed Syrian food, and quizzed our tour guide at the Hagia Sophia. We explored a lot in just a few days and, all too soon, he was off to Bangkok.

All this touring has me thinking about what I would still like to see in this city of seven hills. A meal at Çiya Sofrası tops the list (traditional Turkish cuisine on the Asian side). A visit to the Sabatchi Museum during tulip season is a definite must. I did check one thing off the list that week – after Doug departed, I visited the Bomonti neighborhood and finally made it to the Ara Güler Müzesi.

Ara Güler, People sitting talking beside a coffee bar in Beyoglu, 1958

Just a few days later, another visitor arrived in town. David, my former student from APIS, came through for a long layover. Like something out of Anthony Bourdain, we made the most of the 24 hours David was on the ground. Dinner on the George’s Hotel Terrace (elevator to Floor 5) with dessert at Mahizer’s sidewalk cafe off Taksim. A trip to Sultanahmet and the Arasta Bazaar. Even a stop through the Pera Museum to see the contemporary and historic mix of arts and culture of the region.

After meeting up with Rachel, we headed to the Istanbul Modern and took in the new exhibitions. As Rachel is a boatbuilder from Rockland, Maine, it seemed only natural to get out on the water. We took the Karakoy/Eminonu/Kadikoy ferry loop, enjoying the views from the top deck. Dinner at Karaköy Gümrük capped off the evening and soon Rachel was on her way.

More visitors are on their way this spring, with more sights to be seen. This city certainly has a special hold over all who are lucky enough to visit – the essence of which was beautifully captured by the poet Orhan Veli (translated by Talat Sait Halman). I leave you with his poem, I Am Listening to Istanbul, a recent recommendation from a friend.

I am listening to Istanbul, intent, my eyes closed:

At first there is a gentle breeze

And the leaves on the trees

Softly sway;

Out there, far away,

The bells of water-carriers unceasingly ring;

I am listening to Istanbul, intent, my eyes closed.

I am listening to Istanbul, intent, my eyes closed;

Then suddenly birds fly by,

Flocks of birds, high up, with a hue and cry,

While the nets are drawn in the fishing grounds

And a woman’s feet begin to dabble in the water.

I am listening to Istanbul, intent, my eyes closed.

I am listening to Istanbul, intent, my eyes closed.

The Grand Bazaar’s serene and cool,

An uproar at the hub of the Market,

Mosque yards are full of pigeons.

While hammers bang and clang at the docks

Spring winds bear the smell of sweat;

I am listening to Istanbul, intent, my eyes closed.

I am listening to Istanbul, intent, my eyes closed;

Still giddy from the revelries of the past,

A seaside mansion with dingy boathouses is fast asleep.

Amid the din and drone of southern winds, reposed,

I am listening to Istanbul, intent, my eyes closed.

Fairyland

February 11, 2024February 13, 2024 Posted in Arts in Turkey, Exploring Turkey, Turkey10 Comments

Cappadocia. Now that my time in Türkiye has an expiration date, I want to make the most of the time I have left. With my good friend on board, we hopped a Turkish Airlines flight to Kayseri and quickly found ourselves in a majestic foreign land.

Cappadocia is located at altitude in central Turkiye. The area is known for unique rock formations often referred to as fairy chimneys. The fairy chimneys are a result of a geologic process that began millions of years ago, when volcanic eruptions rained ash across what would eventually become Turkey. That ash hardened into tuff, a porous rock, which was covered by a layer of basalt. Carved by centuries (millennia?) of wind and water flow, these rock formations blanket the landscape like something out of a Dr. Seuss book.

The Kelebek Special Cave Hotel came highly recommended and featured rooms carved into the fairy chimneys themselves. My room was surprisingly warm and toasty inside. Draped in textiles and texture, it proved an insulated spot for a great night’s sleep.

From Kelebek’s mountain top location we were treated to a beautiful vista featuring the lights of the surrounding valley. Like a game of shoots and ladders, hotels and homes were stacked and folded into the stone pathways willy-nilly. The landscape was punctuated by smoke from the fairy chimneys rising in the air, providing a mystical vibe against the inky night’s sky.

We awoke Saturday morning to blue skies and no wind. Enjoying in a sun-soaked Turkish breakfast, we made a plan for the day ahead.

Opting to make our way slowly down the mountain towards town, we stopped to take photographs and explore little alleyways along the way. A funky antique shop lured us in and we were happily lost in the labyrinth for a while.

Just outside of downtown, the Goreme Open Air Museum offered the chance to enjoy the cliff dwellings up close and alongside the fairy chimneys.

We visited a number of neighboring towns, moving from valley to valley via quick 10-minute taxi rides (Uchisar and Ortahisar were highlights). Each town featured a monolithic castle formed out of the volcanic rock, a small marketplace, and plenty of cheeky cats.

Cappadocia is also known for hot air balloon rides. Much like you’d find a ski conditions chart at the front desk of a ski resort, the daily balloon status chart is located behind the reception desk at the Kelebek. Guests are encouraged to reserve a balloon ride for the first morning of your trip, as cancellations for inclement weather are common (safety first in an unexpected twist). You can always bump your reservation to the next day in hopes of enjoying a sunrise flight. My balloon was cancelled both days but I was just as pleased to explore the valleys from the ground. Would love to go back someday and see the balloons fly.

Turkey is such a friendly country to explore. Despite rising inflation, travel here is still in the visitor’s favor. The shopkeepers we met were all hospitable and kind, proudly showing their wares and eager to ask us about our country of origin.

Each town brought beautiful views. We soaked them in as best we could, stopping at little cafes along the way.

On our final night in Cappadocia, we decided to find a dinner spot with a view. Seten Restaurant, right up the road from the Kelebek Hotel, proved the perfect spot. Featuring Anatolian specials, Michele enjoyed the flaming local dish known as Testi Kebabı, or “pottery kebab”. Veal, tomato, pepper, garlic and onion slow-cooked inside of a clay pot in the wood fire and served with rice. The clay pot is cracked open at the table after being delivered on fire. Quite a sight! I’ve found Turkish desserts featuring tahini delicious, a juxtaposition against the sweetness of a typical dish. At Seten, I enjoyed a decadent tahini soufflé. Here’s the menu if you’d like to take a look.

One last treat of Cappadocia is the beautiful textile shops. My friend Tracey has known Ali, the owner of Sultan Carpets in downtown Göreme, for many years and he welcomed us warmly.

Both Michele and I brought large souvenirs home (Michele’s on the left, mine on the right), a memory of Cappadocia to last. Seen here, Moloko breaking in my new carpet which we’ll take to Switzerland.

It boggles my mind that such a landscape is located only a short flight from Istanbul. A wonderful reminder of how restorative a weekend away can be and all that I still wish to see during my time in Turkey. Luckily, I have a few visitors on the way to join the fun…

Lodos

January 14, 2024January 14, 2024 Posted in Architecture, Arts in Turkey, Culture, Exploring Turkey, Istanbul, School Days, Turkey6 Comments

Happy New Year, everyone. Winter has arrived, with January bringing us rain and much cooler temperatures here in Turkey. We’ve had snow flurries here and there but nothing has stuck quite yet. Winter in Turkey really runs from January through March and the lead up can bring some pretty intense winds. These winds are known as lodos.

View of the Bosphorus from the terrace of the Istanbul Modern Museum of Art

The lodos are strong winds originating in the Aegean Sea to the south of Istanbul. These winds are strong enough to redirect currents and can wreck havoc on shipping in the Bosphorus, with winds at the level of a strong gale or 50 knots (a 9-10 on the Beaufort scale, so I read).

A field trip to the Istanbul Modern with my IB Visual Art students

Lodos winds step beyond the realm of a natural phenomenon, arriving replete with their own folklore in Turkish culture. When the lodos blow, headaches, sleeplessness, and overly emotional thinking may all occur.

In the spirit of the new year, I’m choosing to view lodos as winds of change. As the Scorpians sang (or the CIA wrote?), “The future is in the air, I can feel it everywhere”. They may have been referring to the approaching end to the Cold War, but, for me, these lines refer to potential changes in latitude in 2024.

Back in late October I had to grapple with the choice of continuing my time here in Turkey or setting my sights elsewhere, to another international post. As those of you who have been reading this blog are likely aware, my time in Turkey brought incredible opportunities my way – from fantastic new friends to unique travel destinations such as Georgia and Romania. The international school timeline means a teacher could go months between deciding to turn down a contract to securing a new position, and that’s if you’re lucky enough to receive an offer. It’s quite a cliff to dive off – not one I take lightly.

Selections from talented contemporary Turkish artists

In the end, I have decided to bring my time in Turkey to a close. Moloko and I will depart Istanbul in June 2024, having enjoyed a dynamic two years in this exciting ancient city.

I’m excited to share that I have taken a position at the American School in Switzerland (TASIS), my alma mater of sorts from my camp counselor days. The school is nestled in the foothills of the Swiss Alps, on a small mountain called Montagnola. As a twenty-something, I spent four summers at TASIS, becoming acquainted with international life. I met friends and campers from all over the world, soaked in the gorgeous views of Lake Lugano, and took trains into the mountains on my days off.

My parents’ visit to Lugano, Summer 2007

I am very excited to return to TASIS, this time as a faculty member of the Visual Arts Department. I will continue teaching IB Visual Arts, and also have the chance to teach drawing, painting, and the like. This new chapter in Lugano will begin in August 2024. Visitors are most definitely welcome!

Mom and I on Montagnola, overlooking Lake Lugano

A new year brings the promise of change. It is never easy to depart from a place where meaningful relationships run deep. However, I do believe that there is a beauty in the time and place where our lives cross with others. I will take the next few months to relish these relationships amidst the backdrop of Istanbul. I have a few visitors from home headed my way and I remain a devoted tourist in this land of surprises. The next stop on my tour of Turkey… Cappadocia!

Staycation

May 27, 2023 Posted in Culture, Exploring Turkey, Istanbul, Turkey10 Comments

As April turned to May, I was lucky enough to have my friend Tori come to visit from Vermont. I had a long weekend which turned out to be the first of many thanks to the election situation. More on that another time. I was thrilled when Tori could find the time for a week’s trip to Turkey and the direct flight from Boston made the trip fairly simple (Anne’s diner and Don’s airport shuttle included).

Leaving Moloko with yet another set of wonderful cat sitters, Tori and I headed downtown to dinner at Ayaspaşa Rus Lokantası. The most authentic Russian fare in Istanbul, we did our best to sample the trip Tori did not get to take due to COVID in May of 2020. The plate in front of me contains salmon blini with sour cream (yum). We were even treated to singing and dancing in the restaurant.

My friend Michele graciously welcomed us to stay at her downtown apartment just behind Taksim Square. Thanks to her gorgeous art collection from all over the world, it reads as a boutique hotel, replete with a view of the Bosphorus off her balcony. As walked down the steps to catch the tram, we passed the beautiful wisteria in full bloom.

Fresh off my first set of visitors, I had a lot of fun to playing tourist in Istanbul. Thanks to the first go round, I learned you must get to the Hagia Sophia as the line forms at 9am. See us here in line, my second weekend in a row! Managed to grab a simit and coffee on the way. The Hagia Sophia really is as beautifully stunning and peaceful as it seems in pictures.

After our time inside, we took pictures out front and walked across Sultanahmet to the Blue Mosque in which 20,000 blue Iznik ceiling tiles truly baffle the mind.

Rooftops are surely the best way to experience the stunning landscape of Istanbul. We opted for good views and good taste – drinks at Corinne Hotel‘s rooftop bar and dinner at Hodan‘s beautiful garden restaurant. Love the origami installation in the entryway.

Checking off a number of Istanbul bucket list items, I had pre-ordered tickets to Galata Tower. Newly reopened after renovations, the tower was built in the 1300s by the Genoese colony. The Pera neighborhood was once divided into quadrants, respectively housing merchants from Genoa, Venice, Tuscany, and Ragusa (today the Croatian coastline).

The view from Galata Tower did not disappoint on such a bluebird day. And, in fact, we were joined by a cheeky gull on the observation deck.

After, we enjoyed a decadent breakfast at Arada Cafe (a cross between Lebanese and Turkish breakfast). We were quickly very full and enjoyed visits from a number of my coworkers who live in the neighborhood.

I wanted Tori to experience a different side of Turkey but we didn’t want to board another plane. We opted for a night on Büyükada, one of the Prince’s Islands in the Sea of Marmara. An easy ferry ride away, Büyükada proved the perfect little island getaway. Since the ferries are run by the municipality, you can tap your Istanbulkart at the ferry terminal. It cost us a mere $2 each to reach the island.

Büyükada could not have been more different from downtown Istanbul. Bicycles and electric golf carts are the main mode of transportation. We walked around, taking in the old Victorian homes once occupied by wealthy Jewish vacationers. We caught a pop up of Emma’s Baked Goods recommended by a friend. After the tourists left for the night, it was fun to have the place to ourselves.

The next morning, we rented bikes and spent a lot of walking those bikes up and down the steep hills of the island. It was nice to get outside the downtown and escape the packed crowds disembarking from the ferries. As it was a public holiday in Turkey and the economy is not great, many people have chosen to stay local for holidays this year, bringing intense crowds to the city and the islands.

All too soon it was time to leave island life behind and return to normal life. Tori headed back to Boston and home to her own furry companions. Moloko and I were sad to see her go but really enjoyed her visit. I will be taking that same flight back to Boston in just about a month. Summer is coming fast! Hope you’re all doing well and taking care. More adventures to come…

Exhibition

April 1, 2023 Posted in Arts in Turkey, School Days4 Comments

Spring is rapidly approaching and with it comes the annual Grade 12 Art Exhibition. Most of my Grade 12 students are aiming for an International Baccalaureate diploma, the Visual Arts component of which includes curating and presenting artwork from two years of focused study.

Exhibition text, curatorial rationales (artist statements), and 8-12 polished artworks are all requirements of the IB Exhibition. I also request that they create their own flier and invitations. Months of planning and preparation goes into the show. Last week we had the chance to see the fruits of that labor.

Students study printmaking, photography, and ceramics over the course of Year 1 in Visual Arts. In Year 2, they choose the media and the subject of the art they create.

With eight students showing, the exhibition took up two levels including the school foyer and the upper hallway. We expanded the event into a week-long showcase, allowing more of our PreK – Grade 12 student body to attend.

On Tuesday, we held an opening at lunchtime. Parents, teachers, and students were in attendance. My students chose representatives amongst themselves to give remarks and I said a few words celebrating their efforts. I was very pleased with the parent turnout, particularly as our school is so far out of town.

Events like this aren’t possible without the support of the school facilities team and our administrators, one of whom even stayed late on a Sunday to oversee the installation of the large boards. I am very lucky to have that kind of support.

All in all, the IB Exhibition was a great success. The students put in a lot of hard work and brought their visions to life. Only two more weeks left with this group! Lots to do before then but this was definitely a feather in their cap 🙂

Sightseeing

March 4, 2023 Posted in Exploring Turkey, Istanbul, Turkey9 Comments

After a week spent teaching online, amidst the fallout from the earthquake along Turkey’s southern border, I needed to change it up. I decided to book a room in the Fatih neighborhood of Istanbul, close to a number of tourist sites. Despite having lived here for nearly 8 months, I haven’t made time to visit Istanbul’s crown jewels – the Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque. No time like the present.

After lunch downtown with friends, I took the tram to Eminönü. I headed downhill towards the banks of the Bosphorus and easily located Hotel Turkish House. As is customary in Turkey, I was offered chai (Turkish for “tea”) or coffee upon arrival. Having no immediate plans and knowing that it’s considered rude to refuse, I sat down to enjoy my chai in the hotel’s gorgeous entryway.

I was lucky enough to be joined by the hotel’s owner and designer, an architect from Turkey’s Izmir region. We quickly made conversation and she asked me where I was from and what had brought me to Turkey. She shared that she’s spent a little time in Cambridge, MA, and had even delivered her son to a camp in Maine outside Camden a number of years ago. A fascinating and accomplished person, it was wonderful to talk to her.

With the days staying lighter longer, I had my sights set on the Great Palace Mosaic Museum, just a short walk from my hotel. Turns out that the Great Palace wall abuts the hotel’s garden, fully visible from my room. It’s not everyday that you find a 6th Century Byzantine palace wall outside your hotel window. Turkey is full of amazing ruins existing side-by-side with contemporary life.

The mosaics at the museum were exquisite. Restorations had begun in the 70s and today we enjoy the mosaic floors and walls of the Palace created during the time of Justinian. It’s truly mind-blowing. A lot has been done to ensure that the colors don’t fade as they are unearthed.

Next I visited Sultanahmet and enjoyed watching the gulls circle the minarets of the Blue Mosque. With dome upon dome, the Blue Mosque is a sight to behold. It is just as stunning as it was when Brett and I first visited back in 2009.

Thanks to the lack of tourists in winter, I was able to walk right into the Hagia Sophia. This stunning building has changed job titles many times since its construction in 360 AD. It’s been a Greek Orthodox Church, a mosque, and a museum (which it was when I last visited Istanbul).

Today it is once again a mosque so I was asked to cover my head with my scarf. I also had to remove my shoes before entering the main prayer hall. It was just as beautiful as I had remembered – rivaling St. Isaac’s in St. Petersburg and St. Paul’s in London. A hush fell over the visiting crowd, respectful of those answering the afternoon call to prayer.

Upon exiting, I was feeling lucky so I popped across the street to the entrance of the newly renovated Basilica Cistern. Another hold over from the reign of Justinian, the Cistern once provided water to the Great Palace as well as the Topkapı Palace (a destination for another day). I could not believe my luck as I was able to walk right in after purchasing my ticket.

The mystical space features over 300 marble columns, lit by a rotating light show. The effect is both eerie and ethereal. Thanks to the late hour, I had the place nearly to myself and I was struck by sound of droplets hitting the water, falling from the ceiling thanks to condensation.

Winding my way around the space on a raised metal boardwalk, I took in the contemporary sculptures on display. Adding to the magical appeal, many sit partially submerged in the water of the cistern, lit from below. A not-to-miss experience in Istanbul, for certain.

As I tried to digest all of the history available in this one amazing city, I watched as the sky turned pink and orange – a signature Istanbul sunset. Making my way to the Arasta Bazaar (a minuscule, more tidy version of the Grand Bazaar), I admired the embroidered textiles on display.

My destination was Jennifer’s Hamam. Another not-to-be-missed destination in Istanbul, Jennifer’s is beloved by local ex-pats and tourists alike. The story goes that Jennifer, a Canadian woman living in Istanbul, travelled the Turkish countryside searching for traditional textiles and artisans. Dismayed at the generational loss of trained craftsman, she created a consortium of artists across the country and began producing gorgeous Turkish towels made of organic cotton, linen, and silk.

Featuring traditional patterns (my favorite is “baklava”), the tiny store is stocked floor to ceiling with the towels and garments. It’s incredibly high in quality and truly fun to get lost making choices. Jennifer employs an all Turkish staff and I was able to have a long chat with the two men working that day, checking in on their families in the earthquake region and getting their take on the situation as a whole. They were overwhelmed by the global response to Turkey’s cry for help – teams of volunteers arriving from countries as far reaching as Australia, Mexico, and Japan. We all had tears in our eyes, united by our shared humanity.

After a good night’s rest back at Hotel Turkish House, I crossed over to Istanbul’s Golden Horn for breakfast with friends. Stumbling upon the entrance by accident, I took the Tünel funicular up to Beyoğlu. In operation since 1875, it’s the second oldest underground urban railway in the world, bestest only by the London Underground. Another opportunity unique to Istanbul, I would highly recommend a ride.

I capped off my downtown stay with a Turkish breakfast at Privato. Nothing like sharing a Turkish breakfast with friends to help you slow down and appreciate the moment.

My time downtown helped refresh my outlook during a tough time but also reminded me of two things: First, that the kindness and generosity of the Turkish people is truly unmatched, even in the face of harrowing times. Second, that Istanbul is an incredibly dynamic city bursting of ancient and modern wonders. Now taking reservations for Fall 2023 😉

How Bazaar

December 5, 2022December 5, 2022 Posted in Culture, Exploring Turkey, Istanbul, Turkey10 Comments

Forgive the pun – as a teacher with two weeks left of school, my sanity is hanging by a thread! It’s hard to believe but 2022 is rapidly drawing to a close. Holiday parties abound and the weather here has shifted to grey skies with a near constant mist of rain. Reminds me of the fall I spent in Oregon. I’m excited to be headed back to Massachusetts very soon to see family and friends. My first fall in Turkey is nearly in the books.

Heading back to the States is always exciting. Spending time with loved ones, hiking familiar trails, and cozying up to watch the Pats all sound pretty great right about now. It’s also a great excuse to share treasures from my travels with the folks back home. And when you live in Turkey, there’s only one place to shop for literally anything you could ever dream of – Istanbul’s Grand Bazaar.

My friend Michele offered to show me around the marketplace this past Saturday morning. She’s lived here for ten years and knows the Bazaar like the back of her hand. I could not recreate our route if I tried! That’s Michele leading the way into the Eminönü marketplace in her yellow jacket. I’m sure you’d never guess that she, too, is an art teacher 😉 Birds of a feather.

The skies threatened as made our way through the continually narrowing streets. Turkish delights beckoned at every stall with each vendor selling their special mix of options. Piles of spices lined the aisles as well. Keep in mind, we’re not in the actual Grand Bazaar nor the Spice Bazaar – this is the stuff on the outside, ripe for the picking.

Small shops hawked everything you could possibly think of. There was the guy sharpening knives behind his little pushcart and a man attempting to carry bags and bags of rice on his shoulders down the cobblestone alleyways. Vendors called out cheerfully in English, easily identifying me as an American (I was with an Aussie and a Kiwi, odd man out). Must have been my Eddie Bauer raincoat (lol).

Multiple shops were overflowing with Christmas gear. Considering that 99% of Turkish people consider themselves to be Muslim, this was a bit unexpected. But we happily snapped up some glasses for the photo booth at the holiday party next weekend.

Possibly my favorite corner in the market contained all the paper goods and handmade paper stores one could ever need. I had a lot of fun picking out souvenirs for folks back home and it brought back good memories of shopping hanji in Namdaemun.

There were entire stores filled with only boxes, twine, and wrapping materials. Michele really took our tour to the next level when she brought us to the jewelry market. 6+ floors of shops dedicated to glass pieces, silver pendents, and strings-on-strings of beads.

This was peak sensory overload, as you might imagine. Michele adopted mosaics as her COVID handicraft and, with options like these, I can certainly see why.

There is an entire floor dedicated to yarn, probably a dozen shops in total. Macrame materials, cotton yarn, wool, organic yarn. If you name it, it exists on the upper level of the marketplace.

As Jenn knows, I’m not a huge fan of shopping as a past time so I tried to take this all in as sightseeing. It became harder to do as the morning wore on and the streets began to fill with people. Below is a moment of respite I found above the crowds, the landscape echoing the dusty rose palette of nearly everything here in Istanbul. There is beauty in the breakdown.

Please keep in mind that at no time did we actually enter the Grand Bazaar itself. That adventure will have to wait for another day. But this overload of color, texture, and noise was enough to brighten up this grey December morning which began with this view of the Bosphorus.

Some of you have asked, is life in Istanbul really as wonderful as it seems? The answer is not so black and white. Excursions like this one to the bazaar are not my everyday life, but they are within reach with the help of others. It would be possible to filter this blog like any other type of social media – often with rose-colored glasses. Be assured – I do see red when frustrations appear and they certainly do appear, just as they would in daily life anywhere. It’s an experiment in extremes at times. Expat life isn’t always easy and seemingly simple tasks can prove wildly challenging in a foreign language. But there’s a lot of beauty in this life, too. As someone recently reflected, you can let these things get to you or let them pass. Truly depends on the day but that’s my task as I begin to settle in to my home-for-now.

Thank you for following along with my journey! I hope to welcome many of you in person to this wild and wacky place in the coming years. As you can see, Moloko has launched a visitor campaign of her own, modeling the comfort and snuggle opportunities afforded by the guest room, now open for business.

As 2023 approaches, I want to wish you the best, wherever this holiday season may find you. Whether with relatives or chosen family or both, I hope this December brings you all the blessings of the season and, perhaps, renewed hope for the year to come. Please take care and I’ll catch you on the flip side!

The Turquoise Chronicles

Tales of Expat Life in Istanbul

Tag: Teaching in Istanbul

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How Bazaar