The Turquoise Chronicles

After a week spent teaching online, amidst the fallout from the earthquake along Turkey’s southern border, I needed to change it up. I decided to book a room in the Fatih neighborhood of Istanbul, close to a number of tourist sites. Despite having lived here for nearly 8 months, I haven’t made time to visit Istanbul’s crown jewels – the Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque. No time like the present.

After lunch downtown with friends, I took the tram to Eminönü. I headed downhill towards the banks of the Bosphorus and easily located Hotel Turkish House. As is customary in Turkey, I was offered chai (Turkish for “tea”) or coffee upon arrival. Having no immediate plans and knowing that it’s considered rude to refuse, I sat down to enjoy my chai in the hotel’s gorgeous entryway.

I was lucky enough to be joined by the hotel’s owner and designer, an architect from Turkey’s Izmir region. We quickly made conversation and she asked me where I was from and what had brought me to Turkey. She shared that she’s spent a little time in Cambridge, MA, and had even delivered her son to a camp in Maine outside Camden a number of years ago. A fascinating and accomplished person, it was wonderful to talk to her.

With the days staying lighter longer, I had my sights set on the Great Palace Mosaic Museum, just a short walk from my hotel. Turns out that the Great Palace wall abuts the hotel’s garden, fully visible from my room. It’s not everyday that you find a 6th Century Byzantine palace wall outside your hotel window. Turkey is full of amazing ruins existing side-by-side with contemporary life.

The mosaics at the museum were exquisite. Restorations had begun in the 70s and today we enjoy the mosaic floors and walls of the Palace created during the time of Justinian. It’s truly mind-blowing. A lot has been done to ensure that the colors don’t fade as they are unearthed.

Next I visited Sultanahmet and enjoyed watching the gulls circle the minarets of the Blue Mosque. With dome upon dome, the Blue Mosque is a sight to behold. It is just as stunning as it was when Brett and I first visited back in 2009.

Thanks to the lack of tourists in winter, I was able to walk right into the Hagia Sophia. This stunning building has changed job titles many times since its construction in 360 AD. It’s been a Greek Orthodox Church, a mosque, and a museum (which it was when I last visited Istanbul).

Today it is once again a mosque so I was asked to cover my head with my scarf. I also had to remove my shoes before entering the main prayer hall. It was just as beautiful as I had remembered – rivaling St. Isaac’s in St. Petersburg and St. Paul’s in London. A hush fell over the visiting crowd, respectful of those answering the afternoon call to prayer.

Upon exiting, I was feeling lucky so I popped across the street to the entrance of the newly renovated Basilica Cistern. Another hold over from the reign of Justinian, the Cistern once provided water to the Great Palace as well as the Topkapı Palace (a destination for another day). I could not believe my luck as I was able to walk right in after purchasing my ticket.

The mystical space features over 300 marble columns, lit by a rotating light show. The effect is both eerie and ethereal. Thanks to the late hour, I had the place nearly to myself and I was struck by sound of droplets hitting the water, falling from the ceiling thanks to condensation.

Winding my way around the space on a raised metal boardwalk, I took in the contemporary sculptures on display. Adding to the magical appeal, many sit partially submerged in the water of the cistern, lit from below. A not-to-miss experience in Istanbul, for certain.

As I tried to digest all of the history available in this one amazing city, I watched as the sky turned pink and orange – a signature Istanbul sunset. Making my way to the Arasta Bazaar (a minuscule, more tidy version of the Grand Bazaar), I admired the embroidered textiles on display.

My destination was Jennifer’s Hamam. Another not-to-be-missed destination in Istanbul, Jennifer’s is beloved by local ex-pats and tourists alike. The story goes that Jennifer, a Canadian woman living in Istanbul, travelled the Turkish countryside searching for traditional textiles and artisans. Dismayed at the generational loss of trained craftsman, she created a consortium of artists across the country and began producing gorgeous Turkish towels made of organic cotton, linen, and silk.

Featuring traditional patterns (my favorite is “baklava”), the tiny store is stocked floor to ceiling with the towels and garments. It’s incredibly high in quality and truly fun to get lost making choices. Jennifer employs an all Turkish staff and I was able to have a long chat with the two men working that day, checking in on their families in the earthquake region and getting their take on the situation as a whole. They were overwhelmed by the global response to Turkey’s cry for help – teams of volunteers arriving from countries as far reaching as Australia, Mexico, and Japan. We all had tears in our eyes, united by our shared humanity.

After a good night’s rest back at Hotel Turkish House, I crossed over to Istanbul’s Golden Horn for breakfast with friends. Stumbling upon the entrance by accident, I took the Tünel funicular up to Beyoğlu. In operation since 1875, it’s the second oldest underground urban railway in the world, bestest only by the London Underground. Another opportunity unique to Istanbul, I would highly recommend a ride.

I capped off my downtown stay with a Turkish breakfast at Privato. Nothing like sharing a Turkish breakfast with friends to help you slow down and appreciate the moment.

My time downtown helped refresh my outlook during a tough time but also reminded me of two things: First, that the kindness and generosity of the Turkish people is truly unmatched, even in the face of harrowing times. Second, that Istanbul is an incredibly dynamic city bursting of ancient and modern wonders. Now taking reservations for Fall 2023 😉