The Turquoise Chronicles

Budapest, Hungary. Home of the Rubik’s Cube, thermal baths, and the Danube River. The city features both Gothic and Renaissance architecture and as well as delicious fare like goulash and all things paprika. This beautiful facade, however, belies a painful past. Budapest endured Nazi occupation during WWII and saw nearly a quarter of a million Hungarian Jews forced into ghettos and concentration camps. The city was then occupied by the Soviets until 1991. Today Budapest is a gentrifying city under the grip of right-wing nationalism, a sadly common tale across Eastern Europe.

It had been nearly 15 years since I last visited Budapest. At that time, my brother, Brett, was a student studying abroad and living on the Pest side. The Budapest of 2009 was pretty grungy but a still a whole lot of fun. Yellow trams ran down the center of the boulevards and ruin bars were a chill place to hang out. Today ruin bars are hugely popular spots for bachelor/bachelorette parties from all over Europe. Not quite to Amsterdam levels, Budapest is nevertheless beloved for its cheap prices and proximity to Europe. The street art and Romanesque architecture certainly add to the appeal as well.

My 1.5 hour flight from Istanbul was super easy and relatively cheap. Disembarking the airport metrobus at the Astoria stop, I was pleased to see lots of people out enjoying a Thursday evening. Signs of the times included a bunch of craft brew pubs on the main avenue and an organic market near my Airbnb.

The adorable courtyard of my Airbnb reminded Brett very much of his own apartment building on the Pest side. After a little digging, we realized that I was staying only a 5 minute walk from his old apartment next to the famous Dohány Street Synagogue. Another beautiful piece of architecture, the synagogue stands as the largest in Europe. It abuts the site of Theodor Herzl‘s childhood home, father of the Zionist Movement. Below (middle) is a street art sculpture created to represent Herzl, a popular artwork just outside the synagogue entrance.

In between delicious meals and bookstore wanderings, I booked an Airbnb Street Art Tour in the 7th District (my neighborhood). Our guide, Etele, was fabulous and had grown up in the district. We had a great group, grabbing beers at a courtyard bar after the tour.

Another contemporary use of surviving architecture is the trend of glassing-in courtyards and activating the space as a restaurant or bar. This spot below, 26 Budapest, is an influencer’s dream that lives up to the hype. A beautiful breakfast spot surrounded by a modern hotel, I had the place nearly to myself. Happy to report that the food rivaled the ambiance as well.

A drink at the Párisi Passage was another highlight. Another reclaimed atrium, the hotel is part of the Hyatt fleet and has been designed to evoke the essence of a Parisian passageway. My chicken paprikash over dumplings was absolutely delicious but I truly couldn’t help but gaze upwards throughout my entire meal. Really enjoyed sketching the gorgeous stained glass and arched details right out of the 1930s.

During my time in Hungary, I took a day trip to a village north of downtown called Szentendre. To get there, I crossed over to the Buda side (Buda and Pest are divided by the Danube River) and took the suburban train from Batthyany Square. An active artist colony known for its ceramics, Szentendre was charming and quaint, well worth the journey.

A highlight in Szentendre was my visit to the Margit Kovács Ceramic Museum, displaying the work of the pioneering 20th century ceramicist. Credited with the revival of the folk art tradition of Hungarian ceramics, Margit was a talented artist and fascinating character.

On my last morning in Budapest, I followed Brett’s advice and hopped a bus to the Buda side to catch the morning views from Fisherman’s Bastion. A glorious Sunday morning, I arrived to the tolling of the bells from Matthias Church. A former fortress overlooking the city, this spot is absolutely worth the climb.

All too quickly, my time in Budapest drew to a close. I hope to go back for a conference in October and catch this beautiful city with autumn leaves on display. As for me, we’re getting down to final weeks of the school year. The weather is beautiful and I’m looking forward to seeing family and friends in the States at the end of the month. Until next time…