The Turquoise Chronicles

A university town upon a canal, Ghent has the charm of Bruges and the city perks of Antwerp. Founded in the Late Middle Ages, this once wealthy city boasts architecture preserved from the 12th century.

Arriving by train, we took the tram to the city center. Walking around downtown, we were greeted by painting-worthy landscapes at every turn. With the autumn chill in the air and a light rain falling, we took a look around.

We had purposefully booked a hotel close to St. Bavo’s Cathedral, a Gothic stone giant which looms over central Ghent. Inside, we discovered gorgeous stained glass and works by Peter Paul Rubens juxtaposed against works by contemporary artists.

The reposed bishop was a surprising sight, but the marble carving was exquisite.

The highlight of St. Bavo’s and the raison d’etre for this stop on our trip was the Ghent Altarpiece. The masterpiece (below) was painted by brothers Hubert and Jan van Eyck. Completed in 1492, the artwork represents the transition from the art of the Middle Ages (religious iconography) to the Renaissance (human form and representation of nature). The top row is a veritable Who’s Who of Christianity – Adam, the Virgin Mary, “The Almighty”, John the Baptist, and Eve. The bottom register displays a crowd of pilgrims worshipping the Lamb of God in a natural setting.

This artwork was also stolen by the Nazi’s and recovered in the Altaussee salt mine (Austria). Since 2012, the altarpiece has been in a constant state of restoration. Panel by panel, conservationists remove layers of dirt and grime which have naturally built up over the centuries.

Ghent is a port city and, as such, offers deliciously indulgent seafood dishes such as moules frites. Mom and I found a suitable Belgian brasserie situated along the canal and tucked in to enjoy. A beautiful canopy of velvety blue adorned our walk home.

All too soon it was time to say goodbye. Mom and I spent a forgettable night in Rotterdam before heading back to Schiphol Airport to meet her flight. As she headed back over the Atlantic, I prepared for one final destination on this art history tour… a little town called Delft.