The Turquoise Chronicles

Cappadocia. Now that my time in Türkiye has an expiration date, I want to make the most of the time I have left. With my good friend on board, we hopped a Turkish Airlines flight to Kayseri and quickly found ourselves in a majestic foreign land.

Cappadocia is located at altitude in central Turkiye. The area is known for unique rock formations often referred to as fairy chimneys. The fairy chimneys are a result of a geologic process that began millions of years ago, when volcanic eruptions rained ash across what would eventually become Turkey. That ash hardened into tuff, a porous rock, which was covered by a layer of basalt. Carved by centuries (millennia?) of wind and water flow, these rock formations blanket the landscape like something out of a Dr. Seuss book.

The Kelebek Special Cave Hotel came highly recommended and featured rooms carved into the fairy chimneys themselves. My room was surprisingly warm and toasty inside. Draped in textiles and texture, it proved an insulated spot for a great night’s sleep.

From Kelebek’s mountain top location we were treated to a beautiful vista featuring the lights of the surrounding valley. Like a game of shoots and ladders, hotels and homes were stacked and folded into the stone pathways willy-nilly. The landscape was punctuated by smoke from the fairy chimneys rising in the air, providing a mystical vibe against the inky night’s sky.

We awoke Saturday morning to blue skies and no wind. Enjoying in a sun-soaked Turkish breakfast, we made a plan for the day ahead.

Opting to make our way slowly down the mountain towards town, we stopped to take photographs and explore little alleyways along the way. A funky antique shop lured us in and we were happily lost in the labyrinth for a while.

Just outside of downtown, the Goreme Open Air Museum offered the chance to enjoy the cliff dwellings up close and alongside the fairy chimneys.

We visited a number of neighboring towns, moving from valley to valley via quick 10-minute taxi rides (Uchisar and Ortahisar were highlights). Each town featured a monolithic castle formed out of the volcanic rock, a small marketplace, and plenty of cheeky cats.

Cappadocia is also known for hot air balloon rides. Much like you’d find a ski conditions chart at the front desk of a ski resort, the daily balloon status chart is located behind the reception desk at the Kelebek. Guests are encouraged to reserve a balloon ride for the first morning of your trip, as cancellations for inclement weather are common (safety first in an unexpected twist). You can always bump your reservation to the next day in hopes of enjoying a sunrise flight. My balloon was cancelled both days but I was just as pleased to explore the valleys from the ground. Would love to go back someday and see the balloons fly.

Turkey is such a friendly country to explore. Despite rising inflation, travel here is still in the visitor’s favor. The shopkeepers we met were all hospitable and kind, proudly showing their wares and eager to ask us about our country of origin.

Each town brought beautiful views. We soaked them in as best we could, stopping at little cafes along the way.

On our final night in Cappadocia, we decided to find a dinner spot with a view. Seten Restaurant, right up the road from the Kelebek Hotel, proved the perfect spot. Featuring Anatolian specials, Michele enjoyed the flaming local dish known as Testi Kebabı, or “pottery kebab”. Veal, tomato, pepper, garlic and onion slow-cooked inside of a clay pot in the wood fire and served with rice. The clay pot is cracked open at the table after being delivered on fire. Quite a sight! I’ve found Turkish desserts featuring tahini delicious, a juxtaposition against the sweetness of a typical dish. At Seten, I enjoyed a decadent tahini soufflé. Here’s the menu if you’d like to take a look.

One last treat of Cappadocia is the beautiful textile shops. My friend Tracey has known Ali, the owner of Sultan Carpets in downtown Göreme, for many years and he welcomed us warmly.

Both Michele and I brought large souvenirs home (Michele’s on the left, mine on the right), a memory of Cappadocia to last. Seen here, Moloko breaking in my new carpet which we’ll take to Switzerland.

It boggles my mind that such a landscape is located only a short flight from Istanbul. A wonderful reminder of how restorative a weekend away can be and all that I still wish to see during my time in Turkey. Luckily, I have a few visitors on the way to join the fun…