The Turquoise Chronicles

I’ve been lucky enough to be visited by three visitors in recent weeks. My uncle Doug joined me for the start of my February break. My former student (now an employed college graduate!) stopped by on his way to Seoul. And most recently, I met up with my college roommate’s sister-in-law from Maine. Exploring Istanbul is always fun but it’s even better to see it through fresh eyes.

My Top Ten Istanbul (in no particular order):

1. Cafe Privato
2. Galata Tower
3. Arada Cafe (Turkish-Lebanese breakfast)
4. Balat
5. The Grand Bazaar
6. Roundtrip ferry ride to Kadıköy (Güven Sanat, Coffee Pots, Seven Sanat Galerisi) and a return to Karakoy
7. Basilica Cistern (Yerebatan Sarnıcı in Turkish)
8. Hagia Sophia (now costs 25 euro/ticket), guided tour then lunch at Dubb
9. Minoa Akaretler (bookstore and cafe in Beşiktaş and Pera)
10. The Fatih Mosque (dinner at Buuzecedi Restaurant)

Doug and I saw the sights, from the Basilica Cisterns to Balat. He tried salep (a resounding yes), enjoyed Syrian food, and quizzed our tour guide at the Hagia Sophia. We explored a lot in just a few days and, all too soon, he was off to Bangkok.

All this touring has me thinking about what I would still like to see in this city of seven hills. A meal at Çiya Sofrası tops the list (traditional Turkish cuisine on the Asian side). A visit to the Sabatchi Museum during tulip season is a definite must. I did check one thing off the list that week – after Doug departed, I visited the Bomonti neighborhood and finally made it to the Ara Güler Müzesi.

Just a few days later, another visitor arrived in town. David, my former student from APIS, came through for a long layover. Like something out of Anthony Bourdain, we made the most of the 24 hours David was on the ground. Dinner on the George’s Hotel Terrace (elevator to Floor 5) with dessert at Mahizer’s sidewalk cafe off Taksim. A trip to Sultanahmet and the Arasta Bazaar. Even a stop through the Pera Museum to see the contemporary and historic mix of arts and culture of the region.

After meeting up with Rachel, we headed to the Istanbul Modern and took in the new exhibitions. As Rachel is a boatbuilder from Rockland, Maine, it seemed only natural to get out on the water. We took the Karakoy/Eminonu/Kadikoy ferry loop, enjoying the views from the top deck. Dinner at Karaköy Gümrük capped off the evening and soon Rachel was on her way.

More visitors are on their way this spring, with more sights to be seen. This city certainly has a special hold over all who are lucky enough to visit – the essence of which was beautifully captured by the poet Orhan Veli (translated by Talat Sait Halman). I leave you with his poem, I Am Listening to Istanbul, a recent recommendation from a friend.

I am listening to Istanbul, intent, my eyes closed:

At first there is a gentle breeze

And the leaves on the trees

Softly sway;

Out there, far away,

The bells of water-carriers unceasingly ring;

I am listening to Istanbul, intent, my eyes closed.

I am listening to Istanbul, intent, my eyes closed;

Then suddenly birds fly by,

Flocks of birds, high up, with a hue and cry,

While the nets are drawn in the fishing grounds

And a woman’s feet begin to dabble in the water.

I am listening to Istanbul, intent, my eyes closed.

I am listening to Istanbul, intent, my eyes closed.

The Grand Bazaar’s serene and cool,

An uproar at the hub of the Market,

Mosque yards are full of pigeons.

While hammers bang and clang at the docks

Spring winds bear the smell of sweat;

I am listening to Istanbul, intent, my eyes closed.

I am listening to Istanbul, intent, my eyes closed;

Still giddy from the revelries of the past,

A seaside mansion with dingy boathouses is fast asleep.

Amid the din and drone of southern winds, reposed,

I am listening to Istanbul, intent, my eyes closed.